(María Magdalena Arréllaga/The New York Times) The Aquidaban, the only ferry in one of South America’s most remote stretches, docked at Puerto Esperanza, a Chamacoco Indigenous community near Bahía Negra, Paraguay on May 5, 2023. For 44 years, the 130-foot white, wooden vessel has been the only regular ferry service to reach this deep into the Pantanal, a floodplain larger than Greece, traveling 500 miles up and down the Paraguay River Tuesdays to Sundays, delivering everything from dirt bikes to newborns.