In close-knit Navajo Nation communities, the coronavirus takes hold
(Carolyn Kaster | AP) Mabel Charley, left, applies hand sanitizer as she arrives to care for her home-bound uncle in his hogan, a traditional Navajo dwelling, in Chilchinbeto, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 21, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it.
Tuba City, Ariz. • The virus arrived on the reservation in early March, carried in from Tucson, doctors say, by a man who had been to a basketball tournament and then made the long drive back to a small town in the Navajo highlands.
There, believers were preparing to gather in a small, metal-walled church with a battered white bell and crucifixes on the window.
From that church in Chilchinbeto, COVID-19 took hold on the Navajo Nation, hopscotching across families and clans and churches and towns, and leaving the reservation with some of the highest infection rates in the U.S.
Crowding, tradition and medical disparities have tangled together on the tribe’s land — an area nearly three times the size of Massachusetts — creating a virological catastrophe.
And the most basic measures to fight the virus’s spread — hand-washing and isolation — can be difficult.
One-third of the homes across the vast, dry reservation don't have running water, forcing families to haul it in. Many in close-knit Navajo communities live in crowded houses where self-quarantine is impossible, and many must drive hours to the nearest grocery store. To most Navajo, isolating an infected person from their family is deeply alien.
With roughly 175,000 people on the reservation, which straddles Arizona, New Mexico and a small corner of Utah, the Navajo Nation has seen 3,122 cases — a rate of nearly 18 cases per 1,000 people. At least 100 people have died.
A hand-painted sign points the way to the Chilchinbeto Church of the Nazarene in Chilchinbeto, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation at sunrise on Sunday, April 19, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Eugene Dinehdeal shields his face from the setting sun on the Dinehdeal family compound in Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 20, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Angelina Dinehdeal wipes tears from her eyes as she sits with her 8-year-old daughter, Annabelle, on the family's compound in Tuba City, Ariz., on April 20, 2020. The family has been devastated by COVID-19. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A dog sleeps on the red sand on the end of his chain at the Dinehdeal family compound in Tuba City, Ariz, on the Navajo reservation on April 20, 2020. The Dinehdeal family has been devastated by COVID-19. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Eugene Dinehdeal holds photos of family members, including Eva Dinehdeal at top, at the Dinehdeal family compound in Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 20, 2020. Eva Dinehdeal died of COVID-19 on April, 11, 2020. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A sign is posted on the door of the hogan, a traditional Navajo dwelling, of Mabel Charley's home-bound uncle, to keep visitors out in Chilchinbeto, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 21, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
From left, Annabelle Dinehdeal, 8; Maria Cruz, Christina Dinehdeal, Eugene Dinehdeal, Angelina Dinehdeal, and their dog, Wally, pose for a photo on the Dinehdeal family compound in Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 20, 2020. The family has been devastated by COVID-19. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Herding dogs rest together next to the sheep corral on Leslie Dele's family sheep ranch outside of Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo Nation on April 24, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A boy holds a kitten named "Popcorn Ball" in front of his home in Oljato-Monument Valley, Utah, on the Navajo reservation on April 27, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A sign for Navajo Drive is seen against a cloud-darkened Sentinel Mesa in Oljato-Monument Valley, Utah on the Navajo Reservation on April 30, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
On a small table next to an image of Jesus in a crown of thorns, the ashes of Gloria Uriarte, right and her mother, Eva Dinehdeal, are displayed on a table in Tuba City, Ariz., on April 22, 2020. In the foreground at left is Gloria's son, Curly, as his aunt Christina Dinehdeal holds his hand. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
The sun sets behind a basketball hoop and backboard at Dinehdeal family compound in Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 20, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Navajo rancher and shepherd Leslie Dele guides his sheep into their corral at the end of the day on the family ranch outside Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 22, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteer Cindy Robison, a U.S. Air Force veteran and nurse from Colorado Springs, Colo., works in the emergency room at the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 18, 2020. Team Rubicon is helping with medical and emergency room operations here as cases of COVID-19 surge. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Raynelle Hoskie attaches a hose to a water pump to fill tanks in her truck outside a tribal office on the Navajo reservation in Tuba City, Ariz., on April 20, 2020. Hoskie is hauling water back to her home where she lives with her extended family. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A man runs a hose from a water pump to fill a water tank in the back of a pickup truck outside a tribal office on the Navajo reservation in Tuba City, Ariz., on April 20, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A Navajo market table stands unused as Doggy Rock is seen across Interstate 163 in Monument Valley north of Kayenta, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 28, 2020. Navajo Monument Vally Tribal Park is closed in an effort to prevent the spread of COVID-19 on the Navajo reservation. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A rainbow is seen in the distance from the closed Chilchinbeto Church of the Nazarene in Chilchinbeto, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 21, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
WWII veteran and Navajo Code Talker Peter MacDonald Sr. walks down the porch steps of his home on the Navajo reservation in Tuba City, Ariz., on April 28, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A sheep herding dog named "Red" rests in the morning sun before going out with the flock of Navajo rancher Leslie Dele outside Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 22, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Mabel Charley, left, applies hand sanitizer as she arrives to care for her home-bound uncle in his hogan, a traditional Navajo dwelling, in Chilchinbeto, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 21, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
If Navajo Nation were its own state, it would have the highest per-capita rate of confirmed positive coronavirus cases in the country, behind only New York. In the states it spans, the number of cases and deaths among people who are Native American, on and off the reservations, is disproportionately high.
And on the far western side of the reservation, there's the extended Dinehdeal family who live in a cluster of prefabricated and mobile homes in Tuba City. The family has lost four members to the virus.
It began in late March with Maryann Welch, age 82. Her nephew and her 71-year-old sister, Eva Dinehdeal, drove the 90 miles from Tuba City to Maryann's home to take her to the hospital. Soon Eva was sick, too. Then it was Maryann's son, Larry, a veteran of the Army's 82nd Airborne Division. He and his mother died a day apart.
Dinehdeal's daughter, Gloria Uriarte, 45, had moved back to Tuba City from outside Phoenix with her 6-year-old son, Curly, thinking they'd be safer. But she, too, became ill, and died on April 11, the same day as Eva.
Angelina Dinehdeal, one of Eva's daughters-in-law, is trying to hold the family together. Grief and exhaustion weigh heavily on her.
“It just seems like every time I take someone in [to the hospital] they never come out,” she said.
In Navajo tradition, communities gather for four days of mourning before a burial. Sacred stories are told. Elders talk to the young about coping with death. In a culture where dying is rarely spoken about, it is a chance to openly grieve.
But with families hunkered down to avoid the spread of the virus, burials have become rushed graveside services. Some families have sidestepped tradition and had their relatives cremated.
“You can’t even go see your mom and dad. You can’t see your relatives to find that comfort,” said Cheryl Blie, a Navajo who lost a cousin to the virus. “And the grief — the grief is so unbearable.”
The virus hit like a tsunami in mid-March, and smaller medical centers quickly were overwhelmed. Health problems that make COVID-19 more deadly, such as obesity, diabetes and heart disease, are all much more common among Native Americans than the general U.S. population.
This April 23, 2020 photo shows a sign posted in Oljato-Monument Valley, Utah, saying the Navajo Monument Vally Tribal Park is closed, in an effort to prevent the spread of COVID-19 on the Navajo reservation. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteers, nurse Cindy Robison, a U.S. Air Force veteran from Colorado Springs, Colo., left, and Dennis Grooms, an EMT from St. Louis, center, work with their only ventilator, as Christra McDermont, a U.S. Navy veteran from Los Angeles, and operation section chief, counts face masks in the emergency room of the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 19, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteers, EMT Tracy Thomas from Omaha, Neb., and Dr. Stan Chartoff, with the U.S. Air Force Reserve from Hartford Conn., stand outside the emergency room at the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz. on April 19, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteer, EMT Hannah Tellier from Boston, left, and a member of the Kayenta Health Center staff prepare to practice with a new shield that just arrived to help protect medical workers when they intubate patients, in Kayenta, Ariz., on the Navajo Reservation on April 23, 2020. Assisting the medial staff on the table, posing as a patient, is Team Rubicon safety officer and EMT Vick Dempsey. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A sign on a door warns people to wear face coverings at the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 18, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Scott Nargis, a U.S. Army veteran and incident commander with Team Rubicon, works in his housing at the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz. on April 18, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteer Dennis Grooms, an EMT from St. Louis, cleans his face shield with a sanitary wipe after seeing a patient in the emergency room of the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 23, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteers, from left, Dennis Grooms, an EMT from St. Louis, Cindy Robison, a U.S. Air Force veteran and nurse from Colorado Springs, Colo., and Christra McDermont, a U.S. Navy veteran from Los Angeles, and operation section chief, gather in the emergency room during a lull at the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 18, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Scott Nargis, of Wisconsin, a U.S. Army veteran and Team Rubicon incident commander, left, and Christra McDermont, of Los Angeles, a U.S. Navy veteran and Team Rubicon operation section chief, enter the emergency department at the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 18, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteers work with local medical staff in the emergency room of the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 23, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Kayenta Health Center emergency room director Dr. Anthony Griffy, second from right, works with Team Rubicon volunteers, Dr. Stan Chartoff, with the U.S. Air Force Reserve from Hartford, Conn., third from right, EMT Hannah Tellier from Boston, left and Cindy Robison, a U.S. Air Force veteran and nurse from Colorado Springs, Colo., right, as they practice with a new intubation shield that just arrived to help protect medical workers at the Kayenta Health Center emergency room Kayenta, Ariz., on April 23, 2020. Assisting the medial staff on the table, posing as a patient, is Team Rubicon safety officer and EMT Vick Dempsey. When used, the shield is placed over the coronavirus patient's head during intubation, inserting a tube down a sedated patient's throat to give them oxygen. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Agathla Peak is seen in the distance beyond the parking lot of Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 18, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon Volunteers Dennis Grooms, an EMT from St. Louis, left, nurse Cindy Robison, a U.S. Air Force veteran from Colorado Springs, Colo., and EMT Tracy Thomas from Omaha, Neb., prepare to see a coronavirus patient in the emergency room of the Kayenta Health Center in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 23, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteer, EMT Hannah Tellier, from Boston, holds a COVID-19 test in the emergency room of the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 23, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Christra McDermont, a U.S. Navy veteran from Los Angeles, center, talks with other Team Rubicon volunteers, Dr. Stan Chartoff, with the U.S. Air Force Reserve from Hartford Conn., left, and EMT Tracy Thomas from Omaha, Neb., in a patient waiting area at the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 19, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Team Rubicon volunteer Dr. Stan Chartoff, U.S. Air Force Reserve from Hartford, Conn., is reflected in the window as he walks to the emergency department of the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 19, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Agathla Peak is seen through the window of the Kayenta Health Center on the Navajo reservation in Kayenta, Ariz., on April 18, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. Team Rubicon is helping with medical operations as cases of COVID-19 surge. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A sign reads "Navajo Monument Vally Tribal Park Closed Until Further Notice" posted at the entrance of Monument Valley in Oljato-Monument Valley, Utah, on the Navajo reservation April 19, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
The mesas of Monument Valley are seen beyond the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints in Oljato-Monument Valley, Utah on the Navajo Reservation April 30, 2020. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Navajo medicine man Travis Teller gathers sage to perform an herbal ceremony in Tsaile, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 29, 2020. He will make a tea to drink, and smoke and steam to purify the air to protect his people and those in his care from COVID-19. The reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
This April 23, 2020 photo shows an empty Interstate 163 in Oljato-Monument Valley, Utah, on the Navajo reservation. To help prevent the spread of COVID-19, the Navajo Monument Vally Tribal Park is closed. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A boy and his sister play in their family compound in Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 22, 2020. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
Navajo shepherd Leslie Dele stands next to his all-terrain vehicle as he waits for the sheep to come in on his family ranch outside Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation April 22, 2020. The Navajo reservation has some of the highest rates of coronavirus in the country. If Navajos are susceptible to the virus' spread in part because they are so closely knit, that's also how many believe they will beat it. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
An officer with the Navajo Nation Police talks to a driver at a roadblock in Tuba City, Ariz., on the Navajo reservation on April 22, 2020. The roadblock was to inform residents of evening and weekend curfews, hand washing, and wearing a face mask to help control the spread of COVID-19. (AP Photo/Carolyn Kaster)
A cobbled-together coalition of caregivers— doctors from the federal Indian Health Service and local hospitals, Navajo Nation officials, the National Guard, community health nurses, volunteer doctors, nurses and EMTs from across the country — has rallied as the number of cases grow.
The doctors are exhausted, the hospitals don't have enough staff, and the protective gear is carefully rationed. Three isolation centers were set up in basketball gyms. The sickest patients are flown to larger hospitals off the reservation.
If the Navajo are susceptible to the virus’s spread in part because they are so closely knit, that’s also how many believe they will beat it.
They're leaving boxes of food and supplies on the steps of elders' homes or in grocery bags hanging from fence posts. They're driving for hours to take relatives to hospitals. They're delivering water to friends and family.
Raynelle Hoskie recently was hauling water for her six children and her in-laws who live next door in a small traditional Navajo home, or hogan. For her, that togetherness is a sign of tradition and strength.
"Stop making us look like we're weak," she said. "We're a strong nation. Our language is strong, we're tough. We've always used our traditional herbs, our traditional ceremonies. They're very powerful."
Sullivan reported from Minneapolis. Associated Press data editor Meghan Hoyer contributed to this report.
Donate to the newsroom now. The Salt Lake Tribune, Inc. is a 501(c)(3) public charity and contributions are tax deductible