New taqueria in Murray features Los Angeles taco culture

This article is excerpted from the Utah Eats newsletter. To get the full newsletter every Wednesday, subscribe at sltrib.com/newsletters.

Hello, Eaters! When I asked Southern California-based chef Luis Perez why he wanted to open his new restaurant, LA Lola Taco, in Utah, he said our food scene “can’t be overlooked. There’s some really cool stuff going on there.”

Well, you can definitely count LA Lola Taco (the LA should be capitalized, like Los Angeles) as among Utah’s cool stuff. This taqueria provided me with, no exaggeration, the best tacos I’ve ever had.

The origin story: Before he launched LA Lola Taco in Murray, Perez opened his restaurant Lola Gaspar in 2008 in Santa Ana, California, where he is now based. With a menu inspired by Perez’s travels to Mexico City, Lola Gaspar received the Bib Gourmand distinction from the Michelin Guide. LA Lola Taco opened in January at 6356 S. State St., across the street from Fashion Place Mall.

The vibe: Perez said he was inspired by taco trucks in Los Angeles neighborhoods like Boyle Heights, as well as L.A.-area cities like Paramount and Bellflower, where he grew up. Most of the kitchen is surrounded by windows, so you can watch the staff working the grill and hear them call out orders to one another. Pineapples and whole ears of corn smoke on the shelves above the grill, and al pastor cooks on a trompo. Murals on the walls and music from bands like LA Lom set the mood. A little bit of Lola Gaspar style makes its way into the restaurant, in the form of chandeliers on the ceiling.

The menu: Perez is giving Utah a taste of L.A. food culture and his childhood, with time spent in northern Mexico. The streamlined menu features street tacos, burritos, a few “specials” (like esquites and L.A. carne asada fries) and a couple of desserts. With the tacos, Perez said he wanted to take them “to another level” by using locally sourced ingredients and beautiful fresh tortillas made by Armando Guerrero of House of Corn. To read about my order, scroll down to “Dish of the Week.”

The hours: LA Lola Taco is open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Live deliciously,

Kolbie

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As a warmup, we will start with three play-in matchups. Click on the link for the ballot, and choose your favorite in each matchup. The deadline is Sunday, 5 p.m. Mountain time.

Food News

Openings

• Eva has reopened after a monthslong closure due to last summer’s destructive fire on Main Street, according to Instagram. The tapas restaurant at 317 S. Main St. in Salt Lake City had “extensive” smoke and water damage, a manager told me, and the owners had been forced to replace Eva’s ceiling, walls, roof and floors. They also had to have its water, sewer and gas lines modified. After all that work, Eva is welcoming the public again.

• Gossip Kitchen is now open in the former Laziz Kitchen spot at 152 E. 200 South in Salt Lake City, according to an Instagram post. The sleek space offers an interesting mix of pasta, pizza and Japanese tapas, and in addition to wine and sake, there are two “premium cocktails” on the menu, each for $25 (!!).

• The Break Cafe recently opened in Daybreak at 11274 S. Kestrel Rise Road, Suite E, in South Jordan, right next door to The Break sports bar. The Break Cafe is all-ages, unlike the bar, so you can catch a game, have a beer and enjoy some brisket mac & cheese even with your kids in tow.

• Parlor Doughnuts, a national doughnut chain, just opened its second location in Utah, at 2319 N. 400 West in Provo, according to Instagram. The doughnut shop is known for its “layered” doughnuts with flaky dough, in sweet and savory flavors, like pepperoni and chicken bacon ranch. Parlor Doughnuts also has a location in Pleasant Grove.

• Italian restaurant Di Napoli has opened a new location in Sandy at 11372 S. State St. Di Napoli also has locations in Orem, Midvale and South Ogden. When I visited the Orem location last year, I loved the grilled chicken panini and the Italian cream cake.

• SLC Eatery, which closed in 2024, appears to be reopening in a limited capacity, according to an Instagram post. “Our new dining will consist of just a handful of chairs at a communal-style counter,” the post said. “We look forward to feeding you again.”

Closings

• The Lotus Cafe in Ogden is closed indefinitely after the unexpected death of owner/operator Ruthie Shinn, according to a post on Facebook.

• Has a restaurant opened or closed in your neighborhood? Let us know at food@sltrib.com.

Booze (and Drink!) News

• Shades Brewing and TF Brewing have both come out with limited-release beers, according to posts on Instagram. First Crush, from Shades, is a cranberry-lime sour ale at 6.5% ABV that has “just enough sweetness to keep it smooth,” the post said. Brew Beaux, from TF, is “bursting with big tropical fruit: pineapple, passion fruit and bruised mango,” the post said. Shades Brewing’s taproom on 300 West closed, but First Crush will be available in liquor stores.

Dish of the Week

Best tacos ever. I had the Gulf shrimp taco ($5.25) and the Brussels sprouts taco ($4.25), and they were so good. I loved the edges of char on the grilled Brussels sprouts, especially. Both tacos featured salsa macha, which is like a Mexican chili oil, popular in Southern California, said Perez, who described it as a smoky, sweet and spicy “flavor bomb.” The combination of the salsa macha with the fresh lime juice was outstanding.

I also tried the house cheese quesadilla, fashioned after the “quekas” in Mexico City, and I loved the simplicity of the grilled cheese in the soft blue tortilla.

For dessert, you have to try the churros, which are crispy on the outside and slightly gooey inside, served with a chocolate sauce that has notes of cinnamon.