This sounds like a plain Jane dish, but the combination of corn, cheese, a little panko bread crumbs and pickled onion is badder than bad or, put another way, amazing. You can add short rib for $2, which is strongly recommended. It’s rich, but the pickled onions bring a balance to a dish that’s just as good the next day.

Purgatory • 62 E. 700 South; 801-596-2294; Tuesday-Friday, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

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