Located inland, Hanapepe is no surf town. Rather, it resembles the Wild West, with retro wooden buildings and dusty roads baking under the sun. On a weekday, I feel I'm the sole visitor to a ghost town or a Hollywood set. Indeed, Hanapepe substituted for the Australian outback in the TV miniseries "The Thorn Birds," for the Filipino Olongapo City in the movie "Flight of the Intruder" and for an iconic Hawaiian town in Disney's animated movie "Lilo and Stitch."
But behind the quaint facades are 15 art galleries, plus a handful of longtime shops and restaurants. The best time to visit: Friday Art Night, when Hanapepe throws a town party with live music. Galleries take turns hosting the free event and stay open till 9 p.m.
Locals are proud of Hanapepe's vintage architecture, which includes more than 40 sites that meet State or Federal National Historic Register criteria. I can appreciate the old buildings after snagging a copy of Hanapepe's colorfully detailed Walking Tour Map ($2, or use the free coupon from This Week Kauai, a widespread freebie guide).
Most galleries are artist-owned, letting you meet the artists face to face. For traditional Hawaiian themes, visit Koa Wood Gallery, which features classic woodworking (admire the gleaming $2,000 rocking chair), and Kauai Fine Arts, with antique maps and prints, plus rare Niihau shell jewelry. The Art of Marbling showcases exquisite, vividly dyed silks - wearable art, including an affordable $40 square scarf.
If you prefer spending under $20 for a souvenir, go to Banana Patch Studio for terra-cotta coasters with petroglyph or tiki designs (two for $12) or hand-painted hanging tiles (from $17). The ones stating "Please remove your shoes" are ubiquitous across Hawaii. Remember, it's a local custom to go barefoot indoors.
A visit to Hanapepe is incomplete without two stops: First, walk across the town's Swinging Bridge, a short-but-sweet suspension bridge over Hanapepe River. Don't expect a massive Capilano Suspension Bridge. Think backyard-y, neighborhood-y, old-time landmark.
Second, savor homemade chips at Taro Ko Chips Factory (808-335-5586). Calling the one-room kitchen a factory is an exaggeration, but don't let the dilapidated building fool you. Elderly, diminutive Mrs. Nagamine, who still fries sliced taro (and potato and purple sweet potato) in giant cauldrons at dawn, puts the mass-produced stuff to shame.
If you're wondering why Hanapepe has remained so untouched by the tourism rampant elsewhere on Kauai, here's the backstory: In the early 1800s, Hanapepe was a thriving, taro-farming, Native-Hawaiian community. But Hanapepe's native population declined from introduced diseases, and by 1870 only a small village remained. In the late 1800s, Hanapepe became a haven for the sugar-plantation malcontents, including labor-union organizers and restless laborers who started small businesses or farms.
In the early 1900s, Hanapepe was a bustling commercial center, popular for military R & R, but in the late 1930s, Lihue became the island's shipping, business and political seat. Hanapepe declined further when the main highway bypassed the town center.
Today Hanapepe is reinventing itself as an artists' colony and tourist stop. Swing by on your way toward Waimea Canyon or after swimming at nearby Salt Pond Beach Park. Or visit after a bird's-eye tour with Inter-Island Helicopters (800-656-5009; $185-250), which flies open-door choppers.
Hanapepe adopted the "biggest little town" moniker to attract passersby. On one hand, I hope the town is bustling every day, not only on Friday nights. On the other, I want Hanapepe to remain a sleepy, small-town secret. Unlike the island's showy attractions, from the lush Na Pali Coast to world-famous golf courses, Hanapepe offers an insider's peek of Kauai.
Where to stay:
Hanapepe is within 50 miles from all major resorts (including Princeville on the North Shore), but the nearest towns are Waimea toward the west and Kalaheo toward the east. No-frills travelers should head to Kalaheo Inn (888-332-6023; http://www.kalaheoinn.com; 4444 Papalina Rd.; $80-120), an unpretentious 14-unit inn, most with kitchens. Bamboo Jungle House (888-332-5115; http://www.bamboojunglehouse.com; 3829 Waha Rd.; $120-140, breakfast included) and Marjorie's Kauai Inn (800-717-8838; http://www.marjorieskauaiinn.com; $130-160) offer lap pools and immaculate rooms. Try a restored plantation worker's house at Waimea Plantation Cottages (800-992-4632; http://www.waimea-plantation.com; 9400 Kaumualii Hwy.; $195-280), but cottages vary in quality.
Getting there:
American and United Airlines offer direct flights from California, but most travelers land in Honolulu and take an interisland carrier to Kauai.
