Despite an ease of access and diverse attractions, the Ecuadorian jungle remains a puzzle to navigate. Visitors find hundreds of agencies shuffling packages from dozens of outfitters, some of whom disappear midseason.
If you want to explore the jungle, consider the kind of trip you're looking for. Jungle lodges usually charge the plumpest rates, which earn you a comfortable base for short excursions, a steady supply of buffet dinners and dry socks. While animal sightings can't be guaranteed, most operators can advise you on the probability of seeing certain animals. Observation towers offer panoramic views of the canopy, best for bird- and monkey-viewing. Naturalist guides and multiple outings per day further improve your chances of spotting that elusive anaconda or rufous potoo.
Cheaper tours require flexibility, a strong stomach and a sense of adventure. Although few local guides speak English, they can be extremely knowledgeable. Do your homework and you will be justly rewarded. Check on group size, as battalions of tourists tend to spook the critters. Watch for those that cut corners with unsound practices such as dumping trash or hunting for your dinner. The biggest drag of the bargain operations is that they often go into easy-access jungle around populated areas greatly depleted of animals. When arranging your trip, inquire how long the tour provider has been around and research travelers' Web sites for complaints. The South American Explorers site (http://www.saexplorers.org) offers members helpful trip reports written by travelers.
A visitor can't enter the jungle unaware of its fragility. Ecuador has the highest rate of deforestation of any Amazonian country. Antiquated oil-extraction technology and insufficient cleanups of past spills mean contamination continues to be a reality. As the indigenous struggle for self-determination continues, more are turning to ecotourism. Trips with a focus on indigenous cultures can be arranged through high-end and community tourism. While village areas are often depleted of wildlife, these visits provide an unparalleled understanding of life in the jungle, income for the community and the opportunity for cultural exchanges.
Lodges with a conscience: Napo Wildlife Center (011-593-2-289-7316; http://www.napowildlifecenter.com; packages for three or four nights, $595/$795) is the only lodge within Parque Nacional YasunÃ. Trips are guided by Añangans trained as park rangers and bilingual naturalists. Sani Lodge (011-593-9-434-1728; http://www.sanilodge.com; packages per person for three or seven nights, $285/$665) reinvests tourism profits into the Quechua community with scholarships and a community store to ease hunting. Monkeys, sloths and black caiman are regularly spotted. Yachana Lodge (011-593-2-252-3777; http://www.yachana.com; packages for three or four nights, $345/$460) offers birding, hikes and community visits with strong interaction on the local level. Highlights include a traditional healing ceremony and hiking. The indigenous guides speak English.
For active travelers: Coca-based Emerald Forest Expeditions (011-593-6-288-2309; http://emeraldforestexpeditions.com; $50 per day) offers camping tours to Laguna Pañacocha, a cloud and dryland forest with dolphins, macaws and toucans. You can embark on a 10-day trekking and canoe trip to Iquitos, Peru, via the Napo River.
Community tourism: Papangu (011-593-3-883-875; guiding $40 per day) is an indigenous-run agency in Puyo offering tours in the Quechua and Shuar communities. Sacharicsina (011-593-6-288-6839; sacharicsinatour@yahoo.com; guiding $25-$40 per day) in Tena offers river and community tours through a warm Quechua family.
Most jungle visitors first fly into Quito. From there, they can fly on daily half-hour flights to Coca (also known as Puerto Francisco de Orellana) or utilize frequent bus service to Coca, Tena and Puyo. Lodges and guide services provide canoe or private transport for points beyond.
