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Distinctly Danish
This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2006, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.

COPENHAGEN, Denmark - There is Norway to the north, with its eye-popping fjords and strong Nordic culture, discovered by millions during the popular 1994 Winter Olympics in Lillehammer. And there is Sweden barely to the west, with Stockholm as a trendy vacation destination, its nearly 24 hours of sunlight in the summer and, of course, IKEA (coming soon to a city near you).

Both countries are higher on the radars of most Americans than smallish Denmark.

Until recently, that is.

The country has attracted much attention since cartoons appeared in Jyllands-Posten, one of its major newspapers, in January seemingly depicting the Prophet Muhammad as a terrorist. To Muslims, pictures of the prophet are considered extremely offensive, and the cartoons spurred riots in the Middle East.

But there's more to Denmark, and Copenhagen, the capital city, than just a spell of bad press.

There are its many miles of bike trails and miles more of stunning coastline in a country that borders the Baltic and North seas.

Denmark comprises more than 400 islands, of which 78 are inhabited. The most-populated is Zealand, where the country's capital, Copenhagen, is. Weather is consistent with other Scandinavian countries, and the best months to visit are in July and August, when temperatures hover between 60 and 70 degrees and it's less likely to rain.

And the cartoons? Danish goods were boycotted for a time after the cartoons were published. After apologies were issued, most countries that enacted the boycott removed it. Inside Denmark, some say there's been a rise in Islamophobia, although Muslims in the country (about 6.5 percent of the population) conducted only a few small, peaceful protests.

Many Danes, like Martin Jensen of Copenhagen, seem to have taken a glass-is-half-full attitude.

"From my point of view there are two sides of the cartoons, a good and a bad," said Jensen, a 20-year-old oil and gas worker, while watching Champions League soccer in a downtown pub. "The bad side of this is that a big part of the world now has the idea that people in Denmark dislike Muslims and that we don't respect their faith. One of the good sides to these cartoons is that Denmark was on everyone's lips around the world and there is a possibility of that having a good effect on the tourism in Denmark. Another thing is that Denmark now knows a lot more about the current situation in the Islamic groups in Denmark and as a result of that we might have a chance to improve the relationship between the different cultures in Denmark. The Danish government and our ambassadors have a chance to make this situation a favorable situation for Denmark, but it is not going to be easy for them to do it."

Bikes and sights: The first thing one notices in Copenhagen, home to 1 million of the nation's 5 million inhabitants, are the bikes. Cruisers and road bikes, bikes with baskets and baby seats, in all colors of the rainbow, from pink to brown to rust.

The cost of cars and fuel prohibits many Danes from owning one, and bikes are used almost exclusively for transportation in Copenhagen.

There is no better way to explore the city - and the countryside, if you're up for a longer ride - than on a bike. In high tourist season, June through August, bikes are left for tourists to use in Copenhagen, a coin unlocks the bike and when it's returned to one of the many stalls spread throughout the city, so is your coin.

Hand signals and lights and rules of the road are followed studiously in Denmark, and visitors are inclined to learn them before hitting the road, so to speak.

Because it is still quite cold in the winter and rainy in the spring and fall, residents embrace the favorable turns in the weather, eating and drinking on the patios of Copenhagen's many cafes.

The country is a constitutional monarchy - and as in England, an elder queen, Margrethe II, holds power while her younger son waits in the wings. The queen's castle is called Amalienborg; it's grouped with five other royal buildings in the center of Copenhagen. Two of the palaces are partially open to the public. Changing of the guard is at noon each day.

Other attractions in the city include Tivoli Garden, one of the oldest amusement parks in Europe; Str¿get, the world's longest pedestrian street full of shops large and small; and the Nyhavn neighborhood, Copenhagen's revitalized canal district, which once was home to Hans Christian Andersen.

Outside Copenhagen, there is the original Legoland - Danes invented Legos - in Billund; it opened in 1968. To the north is the castle in which Shakespeare's play "Hamlet" is set, Kronborg Castle, in Elsinore. At one time, the castle served as a fortress, as it sits on the tip of the sound where the North and Baltic seas merge, collecting dues from passing ships.

In the south of Zealand lies the region's most stunning land and seascape, Mons Klint. With white chalk cliffs rising dramatically from blue seas, it's one of few sharp images in an otherwise rolling landscape.

Many of the attractions outside the city are just a day-trip away. And with friendly, picturesque Copenhagen awaiting your return, Denmark is a destination not to be missed.

lgustus@sltrib.com

Denmark

l Why go? Denmark often flies under the travel radar of Americans, with more-popular Norway and Sweden as neighbors. But the friendly country has much to offer, and it's eager to improve its image in the wake of the cartoon flap at the start of the year.

l How to get there: KLM and Northwest co-hosted the best deal on kayak.com. It was $806 with two stops, in Minnesota and Amsterdam. One-stop flights are available, on Scandinavian Sys United for $933.

l In the money: The Danes are not on the Euro, although the conversion rate is just as bad for Americans. The conversion rate is roughly 6 kroner to $1. Flight and hotel will likely occupy the bulk of your budget, though food and drink are, on the whole, more expensive there than they are in the United States.

l Not to miss: Copenhagen, the country's capital city, is full of friendly, English-speaking Danes who are happy to chat. The Nyhavn neighborhood, Copenhagen's revitalized canal district, and the mile-long pedestrian mall are must-sees.

l Where to eat: Fish is the specialty, and the norm, in Denmark. The Danes enjoy a herring and toast sandwich for lunch. You may shy away from that, but don't refuse the pastries. Although not called "Danishes" in Denmark, they are excellent, and hard to miss, with shops on many corners in the capital city.

l Weather: The best months to visit this Scandinavian country are June, July and August, when the temperature hovers between 60 and 70 degrees.

l For info: Visit http://www.visitdenmark.com, or the country's official Web site, http://www.denmark.dk.

Bikes, boats and boycotts? Controversial cartoon aside, Denmark boasts the North European lifestyle - quaint shops, slower pace and historic sights - that draws the curious to a seafaring heritage
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