But if you want to escape the traffic and crowds, head south on Highway 1 to the lesser-toured San Mateo County on the San Francisco Peninsula.

Just a 15-minute drive from the Emerald City, the county is a laid-back surfing destination that boasts scrumptious seafood, incredible vistas, outdoor adventure, miles of beachcombing sandy shores and a rich history.

In the 1840s, Spaniards secured land grants to settle the area that would later became known as Half Moon Bay, the county's oldest town. The area experienced a boom in the late 1800s with a thriving business district as Canadians, Chinese, English, Germans, Irish, Italians, Scots, Portuguese and Pacific Islanders arrived.

San Mateo seaports became infamous in the 1920s during Prohibition. The thick fog that often shrouds the coastline was a good setting for rum-runners, and a number of restaurants and bed-and-breakfast inns trace their roots to speakeasies, bordellos and drinking clubs.

Surfing dates to the '40s in San Mateo County and has exploded in the past decade.

The best surfing in San Mateo County is in Pacifica, especially at Pacifica State Beach (Linda Mar), according to local surfing veteran Greg Cochran, president of the Pedro Point Surf Club.

"It is a great place for beginners and more advanced surfers," he said. "The shape of the beach lends itself from gentle to intense. On any given day the water will be full of surfers of all abilities. There are four surf shops within walking distance to the beach where beginning surfers can rent surfboards and wet-suits and walk down to the waves."

Other than surfing, visitors can whale watch, deep-sea fish, take in the beaches and redwoods, golf, play tennis, wind surf, shop or ride horses.

Driving down Highway 1 is an adventure on its own, with twisty roads perched on craggy cliffs overlooking the sparkling Pacific. A rental car -- especially a convertible -- is highly recommended to take in the scenery. If you're lucky, you might even see whales or sea lions. And there are infrequent shark sightings and even more rare attacks at the surfing beaches.

You'll have plenty of choices for lodging, since the county -- home to San Francisco International Airport -- has more than 15,000 hotel rooms, ranging from $55 a night a block from the beach to deluxe resorts. Dining and nightlife choices also are plentiful, from homey diners to high-end seafood establishments with piano bars.

If you're seeking ambience and character, check out the historic Moss Beach Distillery and Nick's Cafe. Moss Beach is believed to be haunted by a woman involved in a doomed love affair and was featured on the TV show "Unsolved Mysteries." Nick's, a local hangout on the beach in Pacifica, offers a famous crab meat sandwich, live bands and dancing, and is a popular spot for weddings and parties.

Two festivals beckon thousands of people in the fall and shouldn't be missed if you travel then. In September, the Pacific Coast Fog Fest in Pacifica celebrates sun, sand and surf during a two-day music and arts and crafts fair. In October, you can see Volkswagen Bug-size pumpkins, parades and art at the Half Moon Bay Art & Pumpkin Festival.

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Contact Carey Hamilton at chamilton@sltrib.com or 801-257-8605. Send comments to livingeditor@sltrib.com.

San Mateo County

* Why go? San Mateo County is a laid-back surfing and beach destination with gorgeous vistas, scenic drives, excellent seafood and many outdoor activities. Just minutes from San Francisco and home to San Francisco International Airport, it is easy to reach.

* How to get there: San Mateo is 750 miles west of Salt Lake City. The best way to get there is to fly into the airport in San Francisco or Oakland, rent a car and drive down Highway 1, which straddles the coast.

* What it will cost: San Mateo offers a variety of economy hotels and upscale resorts. The most affordable rooms near the beach are about $55, but if you want luxury, the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay is $455 a night for an ocean-view room.

* Not to miss: Watching the surfers at Pacifica State Beach, Rockaway Beach in Pacifica and Surfer's Beach in Half Moon Bay. Golfing at Sharp Park Golf Course in Pacifica, which was designed by Alister Mackenzie, best known for designing the Augusta National Golf Course in Georgia, where the Master's Tournament is played. Horseback riding on the beach and trails at Friendly Acres Ranch in Half Moon Bay. Sportfishing with Huli Cat Sport Fishing & Charter at Princeton Harbor.

* Where to eat: San Mateo dining is special for its ocean views. The historic Moss Beach Distillery overlooks the ocean and is believed to be haunted by a woman involved in a tragically ending love affair. Nick's Cafe on the beach in Pacifica offers a famous crab cake sandwich, other seafood specialties, live bands and dancing.

* Weather: The weather pattern for San Mateo County is fog in the summer mornings and evenings, crisp, clear days in the fall and spring, and wet, windy winters. Temperatures are moderate with the summer highs in the mid-60s and winter lows in the mid-40s.

* For info: San Mateo County Convention and Visitors Bureau, http://www.visit sanmateocounty.com or 800-288-4748.