As such, tourism is a huge growth industry in Poland. Visitors mainly head for the Baltic coast and the famous historic port of Gdansk (Danzig), but it's well worth venturing to the south of the country, in particular the splendid Silesian state capital of Wroclaw. Little known outside Poland, Wroclaw is widely considered one of the gems among the country's many historic towns. Straddling no fewer than 12 distinct islands, with 112 bridges connecting its various parts, the city retains a medieval charm that is only enhanced by the onward march of Polish modernity.
What's there to see in Wroclaw? Let's start at the beginning. Like most Polish cities, Wroclaw's focal point is its Old Town district, the original core of the medieval town with the massive Rynek (Market Square) at its heart. The vast building in the middle of the square is the 14th-century town-hall complex, an edifice so large it has three actual streets running through it; wander around the facade with the tour groups and assorted gawkers and you'll quickly see why it's known as one of the most beautiful municipal buildings in the country. The grid of streets around it, too, holds a beguiling mix of old and new, with everything from medieval houses to modern museums awaiting the eagle-eyed observer.
For traditional architecture fans, though, it's the churches that hold the attention. The island of Ostr w Tumski, the original ecclesiastical settlement that grew into what is now Wroclaw, is virtually a living museum of Gothic buildings, its cobbled streets crammed with religious institutions. The towering cathedral at its center still draws in avid congregations and no small number of tour groups, imposing its weighty presence on a square mile that still feels like a picture postcard from the past. Following the ramparts at the water's edge back round to town throws up yet another reminder of Silesia's complex political and social development.
Come dinnertime, it's back to the Rynek, which could happily keep you busy for a day on its own - it's lined almost solidly with bars, restaurants and cafés, interspersed with the odd shop; when outdoor seating emerges in summer, the whole place fills up in a flash. Buskers, street performers and teenage break-dancers provide evening eye candy, and the entire town seems to turn out for a nightly constitutional around the square, all adding to the unique buzz. Even in winter you'll see constant processions of people strolling through, though they're more likely to be ducking straight into a heated eatery than hanging around taking the air!
If you're an after-hours action aficionado, you're in luck. Wroclaw is a thriving student town, and around the Rynek it's virtually impossible to wander more than a couple of blocks without encountering some welcoming hostelry or other; for a delicious local specialty, sample a few Szarlotkas (vodka and apple juice). For extreme night owls, clubs such as VuleVu at Swidnicka 53 and the Radio Bar at Rynek 48 seldom let up before dawn.
Getting there: To get to Wroclaw from the United States, fly to Warsaw and take a domestic flight (one hour) or a train (five to six hours). You could also fly into Dresden (Germany) or Prague (Czech Republic) and take a train from there.
Where to eat: You don't need to do much more than wander around the Rynek or the adjacent Plac Solny to fulfill most eating needs, but there are plenty of Old Town options worth branching out for. Restauracja Vincent (tel. 011-48-71-341-0520, ul Ruska 39, mains from $10.50) offers a highly mixed bag of international cuisine in fabulous interiors, while top chef Magda Gessler gives Polish food the gourmet treatment at JaDka (tel. 011-48-71-343-6461, ul Rzenicza 24/25, mains from $5.50). For late-night carbs, Pastabar (ul Sw Antoniego 15, mains from $1) is a good, though horribly yellow, Italian haven.
Where to stay: Hotel Savoy (doubles $33-$40, tel. 011-48-71-340-3219, Plac KoÏciuszki 19, http://www.savoy.wroc.pl) offers the best combination of price, location and quality, and has some surprisingly big single rooms. For a bit of last-night luxury, the Hotel Dorint (doubles $158, tel. 011-48-71-358-8300, ul Sw Mikoaja) is the best of the many high-end options, with every conceivable modern convenience.
For More information: The tourist office in Wroclaw is at Rynek 14. For information online, visit http://www.wroclaw.pl or www.wroclaw.com.
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Tom Parkinson co-wrote Lonely Planet's latest "Poland" guide. "Travels With Lonely Planet" is coordinated by Global Travel Editor Don George. You can e-mail him at don.george@lonelyplanet.com.
