One can't arrive at the secluded enclave from any direction without being awed by the majesty of snow-capped Mount Timpanogos looming to the west. Driving up the canyon from the Utah Valley side, the geology of the exposed mountain slopes is artwork in itself, with rainbow layers and massive swirls that send the mind marveling at the unimaginable forces that set them in place eons ago.
Abundant waterfalls, with effusive sprays lashing out over sharp ledges, are visible evidence of days warming up to spring.
It's a hard act to follow, and thankfully Sundance doesn't try to upstage it. Instead, the resort's low-profile buildings are designed to mesh with their natural surroundings, and do as well in that regard as one could expect.
Our destination for a recent visit was The Tree Room, the resort's fine-dining restaurant; the occasion was a wine-pairing dinner featuring a handful of new Sundance-label wines and a menu by the restaurant's relatively new executive chef, Colton Soelberg.
Let me divulge upfront that The Tree Room has always been a favorite, from way back in my college days, when Robert Redford hosted a special dinner and preview of "All the President's Men" for the local Society of Professional Journalists. It has continued to lure me and my husband, and a lot of other couples, for special-occasion dinners where the incredible natural setting and rustic but elegant ambience are unmatched, and the food and service have never disappointed.
Now, in keeping with the resort's continuing foray into the arts and independent self-expression, it has delved into the world of winemaking by embracing the "art" of several artisan vintners from California and Oregon. In a unique arrangement, the resort has put its new Sundance label - designed by graphic artist Michael Schwab - on five wines that have been deemed reflective of the vintners' "independent spirit."
The wines are on the extensive list of 200 wines available at The Tree Room, but can also be purchased at the Sundance General Store and in limited quantities at Utah liquor stores.
Among the wines is a luscious 2002 Chardonnay from Selby Winery in Healdsburg, Calif., which Soelberg paired at the aforementioned dinner with several unique appetizers for guests milling around the dining room enjoying Redford's impressive collection of American Indian rugs, baskets, pottery and Kachinas. The fresh tuna tartare was an especially nice complement, whether served on crispy yam crackers or rolled in paper-thin cucumber. The wine also paired nicely with the warm gougeres, airy puffs of pastry made with Gruy re cheese; and a winning combination of savory rabbit rillettes and sweet prunes on toasted baguette rounds.
As the dinner began, Soelberg gave some insight into the rest of the evening's fare and how it, too, fits the Sundance philosophy of protecting the environment by patronizing businesses that are equally committed. The sea scallops, he said, come from a fishery that uses "only sound fishing practices" in harvesting the seafood. They were paired with a 2002 Pinot Noir from the Benton-Lane Winery in Willamette Valley, Ore., which relies on sustainable agricultural methods to protect its resources and the nearby waters where salmon spawn.
The lean grilled buffalo with wild game au jus, a regular item on Soelberg's Tree Room menu, comes from a Salt Lake Valley farmer, in keeping with Sundance's efforts to "support as many local purveyors as possible," the chef said. He paired it with the Sundance-labeled Cabernet Sauvignon, a 2002 varietal from the family-owned Livingston-Moffett Winery in Napa Valley.
Judd's Hill Winery has partnered with Sundance by putting the resort's label on its 1999 Merlot. The wine is a fragrant and delightful selection that also comes from a family-owned operation in St. Helena, Calif. Soelberg paired it with an equally impressive dish of his own: flavorful short ribs that were slow-cooked to incredible tenderness and served with homemade noodles.
The dessert course paired a 2002 Syrah from Heron Wines of Napa County with a creamy dark chocolate pot de cr me and cherry biscotti prepared by Sundance pastry chef Joseph McRae. The wine's bit of spice and the dessert's richness were an eloquent finale to an evening of intriguing sights, tastes and aromas.
Soelberg, himself a product of Utah who cut his culinary teeth at age 18 in the Sundance kitchen before moving through several kitchen promotions around the country, will continue to host special-event dinners through the year. The dinners will pair each of Sundance's wine partners and a more comprehensive taste of their selections with guest chefs from around the country.
The next dinner, set for May 19, will feature Art Finkelstein, owner and winemaker at Judd's Hill Wines, with Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani from Napa Valley's renowned Terra Restaurant. For more information, call the resort at 801-223-4200.
Anyone game?
Take a fork to the wild side at Rodizio Grill, where alligator sausage, jalape o rattlesnake, wild boar sausages and buffalo chili are being served for dinner, after 4 p.m. daily, now through April.
The Brazilian grill, 459 Trolley Square in Salt Lake City, has been adding exotic fare to its menu as a special event for the past eight years and, due to its popularity, has extended the length of this year's promotion. For more information, call 801-220-0500.
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Nancy Hobbs is The Tribune's restaurant reviewer. The newspaper covers the cost of meals at restaurants reviewed and there is no connection between reviews and restaurant advertising. Hobbs welcomes food and wine news, comments and suggestions at nhobbs@xmission.com
The Tree Room
In a nutshell: American fine dining in Sundance's flagship restaurant, which is both elegant and rustic in a woodsy setting that can't be beat. Food and service is of consistently high quality.
Where: Sundance Resort up Provo Canyon about seven miles.
Hours: Daily, 5 to 10 p.m.
Prices: Entrees from $21 to $31.
Liquor: Full liquor service, including an extensive wine list.
Reservations: Recommended.
Child's menu: No.
Takeout: No.
Wheelchair accessible: Yes.
Parking: On site.
Credit cards: All major.
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Capsule restaurant reviews by Nancy Hobbs
Butcher's Chop House & Bar, 751 Main St., Park City (in the Caledonian Building at the base of the Town Lift); 435-647-0040. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Prices: Dinner entrées from $16 to $44; lunch, $8 to $15. Full liquor service. Reservations recommended. Start with the popular blue cheese chips and move on to pizza or steak; the food is consistently delicious. The bar is more cozy, but the dining room, open to all ages, is beautiful, too.
Chef's Table, 2005 State St., Orem; 801-235-9111. Hours: Lunch served Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Saturday brunch, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner served Monday through Friday, 5 to 9 p.m., Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday. Prices: Lunch entrées, $6 to $14; brunch $20 ($10 for children 12 and under). Dinner entrées, $16 to $32. Liquor: Full liquor service. Reservations: Accepted. Fine dining, with the emphasis on "fine." Beautiful interior with a nice view overlooking Provo and the Wasatch Mountains, as well as some of (or even the) best food in the valley. Definitely a rung above most in food and service, Chef Kent Andersen has found his niche.
Cloud 9, 912 E. 900 South, Salt Lake City; 801-363-3408. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday. Prices: Inexpensive, from $5 to $9. Liquor: No. Moroccan food is the specialty here, with tasty kebabs, shawarma sandwiches and couscous, but there's plenty more to choose from, including Mexican fare and a couple of pasta dishes, or the irresistible Cloud 9 rolls.
Trio Cafe, 680 S. 900 East, Salt Lake City; 801-533-TRIO. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Closed Sunday. Prices: Lunch entrées from $6.50 to $11; dinner entrées from $10 to $19. Liquor: Yes, with nice wines offered at $5 and $6 a glass. Reservations: Not accepted. An inviting and comfortable cafe where you can relax over a simple but delicious lunch or dinner, with menu items ranging from pasta and pizza to pork loin and steak. Also lots of impressive salads, and fresh-baked flatbread that is hard to pass up. A nice selection of wines suited to the menu are all available for $5 or $6 per glass.
Roma Ristorante, 1560 E. 3300 South, Salt Lake City; (801) 486-6290. Hours: Lunch served Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m.; dinner served Monday through Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. Prices: Lunch from $6 to $11; dinner entrées from $12 to $24. Liquor: Wine and beer. Reservations: Accepted. Classic Italian food served in a friendly, welcoming atmosphere. Look beyond the menu to the daily specials, and don't pass up the soup.
