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On my first visit to Hong Kong, I was delighted by the discovery of dim sum. Towers of steaming bamboo baskets came to our table and each contained bite-sized delicacies that passed from my chopstick into my waiting mouth — time and again. Years later, the thrill of lifting off the dim sum lid to discover what's inside still excites me.

So when the architecturally interesting building on State Street changed names from Rice to Dim Sum House earlier this year, I was intrigued by the new offering immediately.

If you aren't familiar with dim sum, here's a summary: small, appetizer-size portions of generally savory items, including seafood, pork and vegetables, that are often served in steamer baskets left on the table to keep the food warm. Best enjoyed with a group because there are usually three or four pieces per order, dim sum is similar to small plates in that everyone orders different things and gets a little taste of each.

Although the traditional dim sum carts only roll on the weekends during brunch hours at Dim Sum House, you'll be handed a dim sum menu any time you are seated. Lighter, steamed options are first, followed by heavier fried items, rice congee choices and finally dessert.

Given that this restaurant is named Dim Sum House, I was ready and willing to try a good sampling of these Cantonese delicacies.

In short, the dim sum menu here includes everything from chicken feet ($3.20) that many have suggested are the best in Salt Lake to the scallion pancake ($2.80), which was packed with onion flavor in each crunchy bite.

Unfortunately, many of the fried dim sum options at Dim Sum House were overly greasy. The pot stickers ($3.20) had a crispy, pan-fried exterior but retained far too much oil even after the paper doily on the plate had become saturated. Similarly, the stuffed eggplants with shrimp paste ($3.80) were so laden with grease it rendered the eggplant inedible and the shrimp paste wasn't enjoyable on its own.

Better were the many steamed options, including crystal prawn har gow dumplings ($3.20), with plump shrimp enveloped in the translucent wrapper, and savory pork sui mai dumplings ($3.20) stuffed with minced pork and spices. The steamed barbecued pork buns ($2.80) were beautifully prepared with just a hint of sweet meat peeking out from the pillowy dough surrounding it, but I felt that there was just too much of the bun in comparison to the pork — a better option may be the pan-fried version ($3.20). If rice flour rolls ($2.80-$3.80) are on your shortlist of must-try options, order one (or more) of the seven available like the savory beef and cilantro version ($3.20) or even hot-pot beef brisket and daikon ($3.80).

If you plan to enjoy a few bites of dim sum but still have larger appetites to satisfy, the lengthy menu of rice, noodles and multiple proteins should suffice. The family dinner section ($12.95) features familiar dishes such as chicken with cashew nuts, with mountains of fresh carrot slices and celery stalks, and kung pao shrimp. Each order also comes with soup, ham-fried rice and a choice of appetizer (egg roll, cream cheese wonton or tempura shrimp).

For a little more palate excitement, request the salt and pepper squid ($6.95). Unlike the rubbery little rings your mind might have reverted to just now, here the full squid body is carefully fried for a wonderful, firm texture after being battered in the peppery mix and topped with sautéed green onions and chiles.

We also enjoyed the steak cube French style ($12.95), offering chunks of tender beef sauced in a pepper-spiked and caramelized oyster sauce. This dish was accompanied perfectly with the stir-fried green beans with XO sauce ($11.95) for a kicky, crunchy side.

If lighter fare is desired, try the shrimp wonton soup ($6.95) with fresh broccoli and plenty of crustacean-filled wontons but a weaker broth than hoped for.

While waiting for your order to arrive, take a moment to wander over to the fish tanks on the southwest side of the restaurant to possibly get a glimpse of what you will be eating moments later. Live shrimp, crab, lobster, eel and a variety of fish such as turbot are available for market price listed on the tanks.

While Dim Sum House doesn't quite deliver dim sum like my first introduction in Hong Kong, it's a lot closer to home and worth a visit for the experience of dim sum cart dining and many other Chinese dishes.

Heather L. King also writes for http://www.theutahreview.com and can be found on Twitter @slclunches —

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Dim Sum House

Food • HH

Mood • Hhj

Service • Hhj

Noise • bb

Dim Sum House dishes up a wide variety of dim sum bites in addition to familiar Chinese entrees and live seafood selections.

Location • 1158 S. State St., Salt Lake City; 801-359-3838.

Online • http://www.dimsumhouseslc.com

Hours • Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m. - 11 p.m.; Sunday, 10 a.m. – 11 p.m.

Children's menu • yes

Prices • $-$$

Liquor • yes

Corkage • no

Reservations • yes

Takeout • yes

Wheelchair access • yes

Outdoor dining • no

On-site parking • yes

Credit cards • All major