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Thanksgiving: Mix it up without sacrificing tradition

First Published      Last Updated Nov 19 2013 10:47 am

Some cooks like to change up the Thanksgiving meal — a sous vide turkey here, a sweet potato souffle there. But on a holiday dedicated to tradition, innovation can spark revolt.

"Know your audience," says Jack Bishop, editorial director of America's Test Kitchen. "The people I know want a pie for dessert and they're not really interested in going too far afield. And the turkey is the turkey, and there's not really a lot you can do there."

But if you're the cook, making the same meal year after year can be mind-numbing. Here's a brief guide to knowing just how classic you have to keep the classics, and how far you can push things.

TURKEY • Go classic in the prep, but modern in the method.

The classic Thanksgiving turkey gets rubbed with butter and salt, and maybe a few herbs.

"A lot of people expect the same meal all the time," says Mary Risley, director of San Francisco's Tante Marie's Cooking School. "It's the one meal that every ethnic group across this country eats. And maybe the Italians have ravioli before, and maybe the Chinese have dumplings before, but everybody has turkey. So don't mess with the turkey."

But Rick Rodgers, author of more than 40 cookbooks, including "Thanksgiving 101," says you can keep it real but still have a little fun. "Doing something as simple as cooking the turkey outdoors on your grill is a way to take something traditional into the 21st century," he says.

Bishop says once you've broken that mold and put the bird on the grill, you might as well play with a few flavors. "Doing a spice rub with cumin and chili powder and cinnamon, you can have some fun there," he says. "As long as you choose a spice rub that's not too unusual and you don't do it two years in a row you'll be fine."

And in the home of Erling Wu-Bower, chef de cuisine at Chicago's Nico Osteria, Cajun-rubbed turkey is traditional. "We make this spicy Cajun lemony rub and poke holes and put whole cloves of garlic in it."

Wu-Bower cooks the bird in the oven wrapped in foil so it essentially steams, then browns it at high temperature. "You can't touch the turkey," he says. "This is the traditional bird."

MASHED POTATOES • Go classic, period. If you must play, go no further than casserole.

"There has to be mashed potatoes and I'm just not going to mess with that because there's going to be a lot of people who are going to be very vocal," Bishop says. He admits to occasionally using eggs to turn the mashed potatoes into a souffle, but nothing crazier than that. "Chives are in it," he says. "That's the most out-there ingredient in mashed potato casserole."

Rodgers says your approach to mashed potatoes should be even more basic than that. "Ask yourself, 'Will it taste good with gravy on it?'" he says. "You have to make mashed potatoes that taste good with gravy."

STUFFING • Go classic on the foundation, innovate on the add-ins.

Bishop says first deal with the stuffing base: will it be white bread, cornbread, multi-grain or rice? After settling that, go for the flair.

"If you want to experiment, stuffing gives you the most leeway," he says. "You can add apples, fennel, sausage, bacon, nuts and dried fruit."

If you have a really picky audience, you might want to play it even safer. "Stuffing is a good example of where people expect the expected," Rodgers says. To feed his jones for something new, Rodgers makes two stuffings — one nothing but white bread, celery, onion and herbs, and one with oysters or wild mushrooms.

SWEET POTATOES • Go classic on the concept, modern in the execution.

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