Looking for a new wine, cocktail or micro-brewed beer? In this column, we ask an expert for a recommendation. This week we talked to:
Roberto Stucchi • One of Italy’s most noted winemakers. For seven generations, his family has owned Badia a Coltibuono, a Tuscan winery that produces Chianti. Last week, while in Salt Lake City promoting his wines (Utah sells three), Stucchi talked to The Tribune about the family vineyard and how Chianti has overcome its red-checked past. For those too young to remember, Chianti used to come in a squat, straw-covered bottle and was a mainstay in Italian restaurants with red-checked tablecloths.
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Chianti in Utah
The state-owned wine stores sells three different Chiantis from Badia a Coltibuono,including:
2010 Coltibuono Cetamura Chianti » Winemaker Roberto Stucchi calls this a “good lunch wine.” Fresh and fragrant it is aged just six months in stainless steal so it is light with no heavy oak or tanins. $10.99
2008/09 Coltibuono RS Chianti » This wine, which carries Stucchi’s initials, is aged six months in older barrels giving it a soft oak flavor. A good wine for a plate of pasta, heavier fish or a cheese plate. $15.99
2008 Coltibuono Chianti Classico » Aged 12 months in oak barrels, this Chianti has a ruby red color and a dry warm, lingering flavor. Serve with pasta, risotto and meat dishes. $21.99
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The family winery • In the 11th century, Badia a Coltibuono (which means Abbey of Good Harvest) was a monastery for Benedictine monks and one of the first places where Sangiovese grapes were introduced. When Napoleon annexed Tuscany in 1810, the monks were asked to leave and it was acquired by my ancestors. My father took over in the 1950s from his mother.
Chianti’s reputation • In one way we are thankful, because everyone seems to know Chianti. But there was a period, especially in the ‘60s and ‘70s when Chianti also was known as a cheap wine, not especially top quality. My father helped turn things around. He brought innovation to the process by using Bordeaux bottles and traditional grape varietals.
The signature grape • To be called Chianti or Chianti Classico the wine much have at least 75 percent Sangiovese grapes. Some of our wines have 90 percent and one has 100 percent. But all our grapes are grown in the Chianti region. Some producers add Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon, but we think that messes with the style. We want Chianti to taste like Chianti.
With food • Chianti complements all kinds of foods. It is fruity, but it doesn’t dominate. It also has some acidity for cleansing the palate.
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