This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2011, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.
Now that it's cold outside, the attention turns to warm drinks. Fresh-brewed coffee is one option, while many Utahns turn to hot chocolate. But the most unique locally made winter beverage may be Crio Brü.
It's made from roasted and ground cocoa beans — giving it the flavor and aroma of a fine chocolate. But it's brewed like coffee, so it has the consistency and complexity of your favorite cup of java.
"It usually takes people a couple tries before they really understand what it is," said Eric Durtschi, who launched the Orem-based company in October 2010.
Durtschi grew up in Tennessee, where his father worked for several chocolate companies. "I grew up with a passion for chocolate," he said. But then he became a licensed chiropractor, and his interest in chocolate turned toward nutrition and health.
"I wanted to find a way to maintain the health benefits of the cocoa bean without adding all the fat and sugar," he said during a recent telephone interview. "I just started thinking: What if you could just brew it like coffee?"
The idea actually dates back centuries. Durtschi said there's a South American drink made by smashing roasted cocoa beans in hot water. And in England around the turn of the century, people enjoyed drinking "flake cocoa" that had been dissolved in hot water.
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A super food, with no caffeine • The raw cocoa bean is considered a "super food," high in antioxidants and minerals. It also contains a natural energy booster that's milder, yet longer-lasting than caffeine. That's one of the reasons Crio Brü has taken off in Utah, a state where many residents, included Durtschi, eschew caffeine for religious reasons.
"Since the demise of Postum, the LDS community has been looking for a new hot drink that's healthier than hot chocolate," he said.
But the taste also has won over many coffee drinkers. "I like that it has a strong chocolate flavor, but it's not sweet," said Erin Arrigo, owner of Salt Lake City's Café Solstice.
Her restaurant, inside the Dancing Cranes Import Shop at 673 E. Simpson Ave. (2240 South), uses Crio Brü in some of its specialty drinks. The most popular has been the Frozen Mayan Mocha, made from concentrated Crio Brü and spiced with cinnamon, cayenne and a dash of chocolate syrup. It was so popular during the summer it became a regular menu item, said Arrigo, who has been experimenting with a peppermint mocha drink for winter.
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Creating a buzz • When Crio Brü first launched 13 months ago, the company was processing about 200 pounds of cacao beans a month. As the cold weather sets in, it's manufacturing 2,000 pounds a week, said Durtschi, who left his chiropractic business to work on Crio Brü full time. The product is distributed in 13 states, as well as Canada, the United Kingdom and Australia. In Utah, it's available in most Associated Food Stores, including Harmon's, Macey's and Dan's, as well as gourmet food markets and health stores.
At Dave's Health and Nutrition store in Salt Lake City, assistant manager Annalee Hulse is a fan.
"I first tasted it at a demo in Logan and I knew we had to get it for our store," she said. "Depending on where the cocoa beans come from, it takes on different flavors." Her favorite is the Cavalla, which is made from cocoa beans that are grown along Ivory Coast and have flavors of coconut and cinnamon.
The Vega Reál, from the Dominican Republic, has hints of red berries and dark spices; while Coca River, from Equador, tastes of green bananas and blackberries. Prices vary depending on the store, but generally a 9-ounce bag costs $9; while 1-pound packages run $12-$13.
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Behind the brew • Crio Brü is one of only two companies in the U.S. selling brewed cocoa. The other is Choffy, a company that Durtschi and a partner started.
When the two owners disagreed about how the product should be marketed, they parted. After the split, Durtschi developed Crio Brü, which he named after the Criollo tree, which produces some of the highest quality cocoa in the world.
Durtschi said the product took about four years to develop. Besides experimenting with different varieties of cocoa beans from around the world, Durtschi said a special grinding process had to be created because most traditional equipment produces heat that turns the beans into a paste.
Ironically, Crio Brü's innovative production facility in Orem is just a few blocks away from the award-winning Amano Artisan Chocolate facility.
"It's purely coincidence that we're neighbors," said Amano owner Art Pollard, who called the beverage an "interesting" take on chocolate.
"It definitely fits the whole Utah culture," he said. "But it's a coffee alternative that is worth trying."
Twitter @kathystephenson
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Crio Brü
The Orem-based company offers three varieties of roasted and ground cocoa beans for brewing:
Cavalla • From the Ivory Coast, with hints of coconut and cinnamon
Coca River • From Equador, with hints of green banana and blackberries
Vega Reál • From the Dominican Republic, with flavor of red berries and dark spice
Cost • A 1-pound bag costs between $12-$13; a 9-ounce bag sells for about $9.
Where to buy • criobru.com
Buy Crio Brü in a drink • Café Solstice, inside the Dancing Crane Import Shop, 673 E. Simpson Ave. (2240 South), Salt Lake City; 801-487-0980; sells Frozen Mayan Mocha ($3, for 16 ounces, or $3.50, 20 ounces), made from concentrated Crio Brü, spiced with cinnamon, cayenne and a dash of chocolate syrup. She's also experimenting with a peppermint mocha drink for winter.
How to brew
In a French press • Use 2 tablespoons ground cocoa for every 4.25 ounces boiling water. Stir and steep for 10 to 15 minutes. Stir and press.
In a coffee maker • Use 2 tablespoons ground cocoa for every 4.25 ounces of water. Use the 1- to 4-cup setting, if possible. Best with a gold-wire filter, not paper.
Hint • When using a coffee maker, let the brewed cocoa sit for 30 minutes before serving, says Erin Arrigo from Café Solstice. "You just can't brew it too long." —
More hot chocolate from Utah
Chocolate + cream • Owner Alexandra Ziegenmeir makes her company's winter beverage by melting top quality Valrhona chocolate and combining it with cream and a bit of milk. The mixture is steeped with whole spices to infuse flavor. It's rich and decadent and you only need a small cup. A 3-ounce serving is $3.99 at Caputo's Market and Deli, 314 W. 300 South, Salt Lake City. Three flavors are available: Barcelona, milk chocolate with cinnamon, cardamom and almond notes; Mayan dark, with a touch of fresh habañero; and salted caramel, with a hint of espresso, sea salt and lemon essence.
Stephen's Gourmet Cocoa •Two new flavors have been added to this Utah company's line of instant hot cocoa, said president David Cowley. The first is a Mexican chocolate, featuring a darker cocoa with a touch of cinnamon; and caramel mocha, with hints of caramel and a coffee flavorings — but no caffeine. In all, the Farmington-based company has 19 different flavored hot cocoas.