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If you have yet to sip fresh fruit juice first thing in the morning, you don't know what you're missing. The taste of fresh juice is positively brilliant, made even sweeter because you know exactly what went into your glass.

The Environmental Law Foundation (http://www.envirolaw.org) tested nearly 150 common juice and packaged fruit product and, according to recent news reports, it found that 85 percent contained alarming levels of lead. In some instances, individual servings of juice harbored lead levels substantially above the Food and Drug Administration's daily limit. This is really scary, especially for children, who can suffer developmental problems from even miniscule amounts of lead. But it's not a matter to take lightly no matter your age.

The solution is simple and delicious: take the fruit juice out of the factory and bring it into your kitchen. Maybe you have surplus fruit from the summer's harvest, or maybe you have a favorite local source of organically grown produce. Either way, I'll bet you have something fresh on hand right now that can be squeezed for a superbly refreshing drink. Savor it now or store for later use.

What to use • You can juice just about any kind of produce, but the fruits that work best are those we typically associate with bottled juices including apples, grapes, oranges, lemons and tomatoes. There also are a few succulent choices that are not found as often such as cherries, melons, apricots and plums. Carrots, asparagus, celery, beets, garlic, onions, parsley, cilantro and other vegetables are also great juicing candidates for savory beverages and soup stocks. When selecting produce, go for fresh, plump and fully ripe. Stay away from those with serious blemishes or fruit that looks withered.

Buying • Your choice of juicing equipment will depend on your needs. If you plan to juice occasionally to satisfy spontaneous cravings, go low-tech squeezing by hand or with a basic cone-shaped citrus juicer. For less squeezable fruits, consider heating your produce in a pot until skins soften, then strain with cheesecloth.

For the serious juicer interested in producing higher volumes to savor and store, I recommend a good steam juicer. I use Lehman's Best Steam Juicer which can be found at http://www.lehmans.com. With no cranking, pressing or straining, this stove-top juicer will make 3 to 5 quarts of juice in about an hour, extracting every last drop. The juice you produce will be safe for long-term storage since steam heat eliminates bacteria and germs that can cause juice to ferment. The Best Steam Juicer is $190 plus shipping. It costs significantly more than Lehman's Good Steam Juicer, which is $70. But don't skimp here. The Best Juicer is made of inert stainless steel, so it won't leach potentially harmful metals into your juices. The Good Juicer is made of aluminum, which is known to react with acidic foods. Using a standard canning chart, you can now "can" your juice in bottles.

Preparing • Even when you buy organic produce, wash it well with warm water before juicing. Peel fruits with thick skins or rinds like citrus fruits, kiwis or melons. Remove pits and other inedible parts. (Peeling, pitting and removing stems are unnecessary with the Lehman's juicer.) Fruits that you plan to squeeze by hand can be cut into smaller pieces for easier handling.

Juicing • If you use the simple heating method, simmer fruit in a glass, enamel or stainless-steel pot. Keep the heat low to prevent burning or excessive evaporation. Cook until tender, cool, then strain through two layers of cheesecloth. Colanders or food mills can be used, but cheesecloth yields the cleanest juice.

You likely won't need sugar in your juice because there is so much fresh flavor in ripe fruit. But if you do want more sweetness, try a pinch of sugar, honey or Stevia. A squeeze of lemon juice will add tang to sweet juices and will help preserve color.

Freezing • There is no comparison to fresh-squeezed juice when it comes to flavor and nutrient content, but juices do freeze beautifully, preserving more of their natural goodness than commercially packaged varieties. If you have already heated your juice, you don't need to worry about blanching before freezing. Simply pour into glass jars or other freezer containers leaving about 1/2 inch of space at the top to accommodate expansion. Then seal and freeze. You can also freeze juice in ice cube trays, then store the little blocks in freezer bags.

If you didn't heat your juice while processing, heat about a quart at a time to 185 degrees (not to boiling). Pour hot juice into glass freezer containers and freeze immediately, without letting juice cool at room temperature.

MaryJane Butters is the editor of MaryJanesFarm magazine. E-mail her at everydayorganic@maryjanesfarm.com.