This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2010, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.
We've all heard the wisdom: Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, but teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime.
If I could place a fishing pole into the hands of each and every one of you, you know I would. But the truth is many of you lack a babbling brook and, sadly, there are no rubber waders in your near future. You depend on local markets and shops to supply the fish you eat. That can be a wonderful opportunity — or a no-man's land of misinformation.
Living the organic spirit means purchasing fish that don't deplete endangered populations or harm habitats. It also means eating farmed fish that are raised in a clean and responsible fashion, and avoiding over-fished varieties. It takes a little know-how and a relationship with your fishmonger to make sure you buy fresh and healthy catches.
If the task has you feeling like a fish out of water, don't worry — doing the right thing is as simple as arming yourself with good information.
Get an education • Start by knowing the best kinds of seafood to bring home. It's not as simple as choosing "wild" over "farmed." The right choice changes constantly for several reasons including how each variety is caught or raised and any species population problems that might arise.
For example, current recommendations say it's okay to eat albacore tuna, freshwater Coho salmon and farmed mussels, but the popular farmed Atlantic salmon is on the list of fish to avoid. In six months, it could be a whole 'nother story.
Thankfully, you don't have to do the research yourself. There are some great organizations, such as the Monterey Bay Aquarium, that keep an eye on these important issues for us. Bookmark their "Seafood Watch List," a current guide to seafood recommendations at http://www.montereybayaquarium.org. The site provides the best choices, sustainable alternatives and fish to avoid all in a handy little cheat sheet to carry with you to the market.
Purchase with care • Once you're up to date on the latest seafood advice, you're ready to buy. If the details you need (i.e. farmed, wild, country of origin, etc.) aren't posted, you'll need to have a little chat with the fish seller. If he or she doesn't know where the fish came from or seems surprised that you're asking, turn on your heels and run to a different market.
In these complicated times, it'll make things easier for everyone if you support knowledgeable and conscientious fishmongers. Get to know the person who sells your fish. Learn their name, and tell them what you like to eat. If you need a special order, want a custom cut or would like your fish deboned, don't be shy — ask away! Your food supply is too important to trust to just anyone, so cultivate a relationship with a fishmonger who will go the extra mile to make you as happy as a clam.
When it comes to examining your potential dinner, remember: You're not being picky — you just have high standards. When selecting a fish, clear and glossy eyes are a good sign; pass up fish with cloudy or dull gazes. The skin should be firm and elastic when touched (yes, I said, "touched") and have a shiny, metallic look, with bright red gills.
Then take a nice, deep sniff. Does your fish smell fishy? It shouldn't! Remember the briny, clean smell of ocean water? That's what you're looking for. A fish that doesn't smell fresh now won't get any sweeter once you get it home. Scallops and clams should not be gray. Healthy, live shellfish such as clams and mussels will get a wee bit shy and close up when you tap on their shells. And for Pete's sake, everything should be on plenty of ice that's being changed regularly.
Once you've gotten your catch home, prepare it simply to highlight the subtle flavors of fresh fish without overwhelming them. A pat of butter, a healthy squirt of lemon juice, and a few bundles of fresh herbs are often all you need. If you roast your fish whole, toss the head, bones and trimmings into the freezer for stewing a fish stock at a moment's notice. Or try an old-fashioned fish boil, complete with baby potatoes and butter. I can't guarantee a cleaner ocean by the night's end— but I can guarantee clean plates.
MaryJane Butters is the editor of MaryJanesFarm magazine. E-mail her at everydayorganic@maryjanesfarm.com.