This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2011, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.
Park City • Precious metals — gold, lead and silver — first drew prospectors to these mountains, which became home for a resort town that now mines snow for its livelihood. The Marsac Silver Mining Co. once operated a building on bustling Main Street, but another company, Silver, has taken over. The difference with this Silver, though, is that it specializes in serving New American cuisine.
Owners apparently spared no expense transforming the Phoenix Gallery into what's now a swanky, sophisticated, tri-level space. Once I was inside, my eyes darted from one cool design element to the next: chairs done in metallic faux alligator skin, cube fireplaces suspended from the ceiling and a banquettes upholstered in cobalt mohair extending from floor to ceiling. Wooden tables and floors give a nod to Silver's western roots.
The menu is modern (Wagyu beef carpaccio, steamed mussels, truffled cavatelli pasta) yet playful (foie gras French toast, house meatballs, s'mores). The kitchen staff, under the direction of chefs Tate Barfuss and Chris Durfee, shows its technique in dishes such as precisely square logs of parmesan-truffle fries ($8) and falafel-like rugby balls of nutty quinoa — instead of ground chickpeas — that sit aside Alaskan halibut ($28).
The majority of what I ate at Silver inspires me to return, but a few dishes need retooling.
Each meal begins with the arrival of puffy, cylindrical rolls on a slate slab alongside chive oil. When I bit into one, and then another, I couldn't help but think fondly of Lion House rolls in miniature. (They're also functional, as they're really good at sopping up juices.)
One of the most memorable salads I've had was the humbly-named "butter leaf salad" ($9). Scattered among the greens are shaves of parmesan, date nubbins, roasted corn, toasted pumpkin seeds and wisps of jalapeño. The lot, which provided enough food for two, is tossed in a basil vinaigrette.
Another insanely good item is the tangle of caramelized ginger and shallots that comes with a could-have-been-rosier duck breast ($29), fennel and braised endive. The anise and bitter notes of the vegetables were offset by the zip of the sweetened rhizome, complementing the duck to a T. Two ounces of seared foie gras ($17) were the star of what could be a light main dish, tamed by tart Granny Smith apples, almond brioche (the French toast part) and a drizzle of sherry sauce.
Though main courses come with starches and vegetables, it's also an option to make a meal of starters and sides. Silver's macaroni in its mac 'n' cheese comes in the form of ditalini (little tube) pasta, which is cooked in a bubbling goo — and I mean that in the nicest way — of nutmeg-scented mascarpone, cream and parmesan. Oft-maligned Brussels sprouts ($6) are halved, roasted and transformed into little orbs of crackling vegetal goodness. Other sides include sweet corn pudding, haricots verts and roasted cauliflower ($6-$8).
I could easily see those who don't mind higher volumes of noise partaking of appetizers and/or drinks on the top floor — the hippest of the three levels — which features a bar, live DJ and more dining space. No matter where our party was seated on multiple visits, service was very good; servers were friendly and extremely knowledgeable about the menu and drink lists, including a 3,000-bottle wine list that has 2.5-ounce and 5-ounce pours, as well as half and full bottles.
The 15-item list of signature cocktails ($8-$50) focuses on local alcohol makers High West Distillery and Vida Tequila. (Silver co-owner Lisa Barlow is also an owner of the tequila company.)
Vida Tequila's blanco tequila, for example, is used to craft a great-tasting "silver fox" ($8), along with Italian Aperol, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, lemon and an absinthe rinse. The list caps out with the $50 (!) "rattlesnake," made with Hennessy XO Cognac, Grand Marnier, lemon, Louis XIII floater, and peppery grains of paradise. I, for one, would rather use the $50 to pay the babysitter.
Some of the not-so-successful dishes included a steamed mussels starter ($12), the broth of which had too much alcohol that hadn't burned off, making a very unpleasant taste along with the colorful, though, acidic red and yellow tomatoes. Another starter, the spring rolls, weren't worth the $10 price tag. I've had better tasting, expertly rolled versions at many a Thai or Vietnamese place — for a third of the price.
Lastly, a vibrant yellow beurre blanc that accompanied an entrée of halibut was sabotaged by too much saffron, which made the sauce taste medicinal and metallic, leaving me reaching for something to clear my throat.
The dessert menu exhibits playfulness with such choices as the apple brown betty ($8), bread pudding ($8) that was gloppy but otherwise good-tasting, and a memorable plate of s'mores ($8): small brownie squares topped with browned house-made marshmallows and drizzles of chocolate. On another visit, we were told the intriguing-sounding "carnival" ($14 for two) couldn't be ordered. This dessert consisted of caramel corn, cotton candy, funnel cake and mini cones. The recent arrival of a new pastry chef may or may not mean the carnival's demise; we'll have to see.
With the arrival of Silver, which has the look, the vibe and overall great food, there's even more to discover in Park City.
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Silver
Food • HHH
Mood • HHHH
Service • HHHhj
Noise • bb
Silver's look is opulent, its vibe is modern, and its mainly excellent New American food raises the bar for fine dining in Park City.
Location • 508 Main St., Park City; 435-940-1000
Online • http://www.silverrestaurant.com
Hours • Open nightly, 5 to 10 p.m.
Children's menu • No
Prices • $$$$
Liquor • Full service
Corkage • $15
Reservations • Recommended
Takeout • No
Wheelchair access • Yes
Outdoor dining • No
On-site parking • No
Credit cards • All major