This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2011, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.
South Jordan • One might forgive a restaurateur for not wanting to open up shop in today's economy, especially in South Jordan, an area dominated by chain restaurants with deep pockets.
Which is why locally owned and operated Fin & Norah's might be a welcome sight for chain restaurant-weary eyes. You may already know the owners' previous ventures, the popular Tsunami restaurants. You won't find sushi or miso soup at Fin & Norah's though; the focus is squarely on "fresh American" food.
The restaurant's name (inspired by the names of the owners' daughters) evokes images of a small, family-run cafe that turns out food like mom used to make and is staffed by welcoming faces. The space, however, couldn't be further from a traditional diner.
The interior has a clean — almost sparse — modern aesthetic. High ceilings and hard edges also don't help to cultivate a comforting vibe. Later in the evening, gentle background music softens the feel a bit, as does the wall art, which are images of classic signs from around the valley, such as the iconic Rio Grande, Bongo Lounge and Crane Building. The artwork makes for great conversation, but the place still lacks personality.
Fin & Norah's has a small bar area, which locals have eagerly discovered, making it a great spot to enjoy the full-alcohol list — with familiar names such as Epic Brewery ($7.50 for an excellent Cross Fever Amber Ale) and High West Distillery — while they watch sporting events on the handful of muted TVs over the bar.
The food menu is big — very big, in fact — offering everything from burgers to sandwiches, wings to chicken tenders, pizzas to steaks. The kitchen does make a laudable attempt to create much of their food in-house; even the mayonnaise is made on-site. The restaurant also sources many of its ingredients from local purveyors such as Colosimo's, Stoneground Bakery and Winder Dairy.
One American classic we sampled was the onion rings ($4.95). Chunky onion slices in a satisfyingly thick and crunchy batter were served fresh from the fryer. The rings came stacked high and served with fry sauce and ketchup.
Fresh-cut potato chips ($4.95) were good for snacking on while we perused our menus. Crab dip ($7.95), on the other hand, was an overly salted disappointment — even the accompanying toasted baguette slices were covered in salt. The F&N lettuce cups ($9.95), with pulled pork and barbecue sauce instead of the traditional minced chicken mixture, seemed confused and unnecessary.
A staple of American comfort food is surely the burger, but on two visits, Fin & Norah's burgers fell short. Buns and toppings were adequate; however, each burger suffered the same dry, lackluster patty. The bacon-mushroom-swiss burger ($8.95) was largely forgettable as a consequence and the Riverpark Royal burger ($9.95) threatened the same fate, but was thankfully redeemed by mounds of juicy corned beef.
The same thinly sliced corned beef showed up in the corned beef Reuben ($9.95), recommended by our server as a house special. The succulent beef was bolstered by Jarlsberg cheese, sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. The result was a gooey, messy treat. We also had to sample the pizza, given the restaurant's proud claims for its house-made dough and sauce. The vegetarian ($10.95, tomato, grilled eggplant, onion, green bell pepper, mushrooms and mozzarella) came with a thin and crispy crust, not to mention a simple but appetizing tomato sauce. The pizza was plenty for two to share, and one of 10 choices.
Eager to try the meatloaf and roasted chicken, we were disappointed to hear these two dishes have been nixed, despite still being listed on the menu. Oddly, our server suggested chicken cordon bleu (not listed) in lieu of the roasted chicken. Instead, I opted for top sirloin ($22.95). It arrived cooked exactly as ordered and the accompanying peppercorn sauce packed a punch of robust flavor. Grilled halibut ($19.95) was served as an ample portion but unfortunately arrived lukewarm.
Side dishes ranged from decent to unremarkable. French fries and F&N potatoes (think breakfast-style potatoes) were largely gobbled up, whereas a side of sautéed squash was boring and bland.
Dessert portion sizes are generous enough to share. House-made carrot cake ($5.95) was smothered in rich, buttery cream cheese frosting. House-made vanilla ice cream came flecked with real vanilla. The star of the desserts though was the "Italian" doughnuts ($6.50). These small, dense, doughy bites came to the table piping hot, oozing oil from the fryer and ready to be dipped into the accompanying ganache and caramel.
The restaurant has been open three months, and while service was friendly and efficient, slight slip-ups and confusion were still on display. Service and kitchen staff still seem to be finding their bearings, based on a forgotten side order and servers' lack of menu knowledge. On one visit, we also found the restaurant closed for breakfast despite their website claiming otherwise.
Fin & Norah's currently presents a frustrating conundrum with a mix of highs and lows. With more than 60 menu items for dinner alone, the menu feels unfocused. There's a sense of a restaurant simply trying to do too much to please everyone. The restaurant would benefit from cutting out distractions, such as the lettuce cups and crab dip, for starters.
More focus is needed if Fin & Norah's intends to be deserving of adding their own name to the celebrated Utah classics that line their walls. They should concentrate on a core of classic American food, executed with precision and made-from-scratch love — just like those excellent onion rings.
New Salt Lake Tribune restaurant reviewer Stuart Melling blogs at gastronomicslc.com. Send comments about this review to food@sltrib.com or post a response at facebook.com/tribremix. —
HH
Fin & Norah's
Food • HH
Mood • H
Service • HH
Noise • bb
Fresh American food from an extensive menu. Plenty of highs, but several missteps, with signs of a restaurant still finding its feet. Notable dishes include onion rings, Reuben sandwich, top sirloin, "Italian" doughnuts.
Location • 651 West Jordan Parkway, South Jordan; 801-253-7389
Online • http://www.finandnorahs.com
Hours • Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday, 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Children's menu • Yes
Prices • $$
Liquor • Full service
Corkage • $5
Reservations • Accepted
Takeout • Yes
Wheelchair access • Yes
Outdoor dining • No
On-site parking • Yes
Credit cards • All major