This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2016, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.

Taking a goopy bowl of raw egg whites and whipping them into puffy, white clouds is the miracle of meringue.

Of course, there's science behind this ethereal wonder: Beating raw egg whites rearranges the structure of the proteins. Initially, the proteins are all tangled, like the necklaces in a jewelry box. Beating breaks up the proteins and when they realign, they form a delicious fluff that can be used to lighten cakes and cookies, form marshmallow-like frostings and fruit-filled pavlovas, or top a pie or tart.

All these are heavenly desserts perfect to serve on Easter this Sunday.

There are three versions of meringue, explains Romina Rasmussen, the chef/owner of Les Madeleines Bakery in Salt Lake City.

The most common is French, the easiest and fluffiest type of meringue to make, but also the least stable, she said. It's made by beating egg whites and sugar until stiff, glossy peaks form. This type of meringue separates if beaten too long and "weeps" the longer it stands. But it works well for desserts such as lemon meringue pie, baked Alaska and cookies. A French meringue should be used only in recipes that call for baking, which kills any salmonella in the raw egg white.

For an Italian meringue, egg whites are beaten while a slow stream of hot sugar syrup is added. The heated sugar makes this meringue more stable than the French version, but it's also the most difficult to make. It is good for pies, flans and tarts and is often used to make icing for cakes.

Finally, there is Swiss meringue, which Rasmussen uses for her bakery's lemon tarts. Egg whites and sugar are beaten over a pan of gently simmering water — called a bain marie ­— until it reaches 175 degrees on a kitchen thermometer. It is then removed from the heat and beaten in a stand mixer until it's stiff enough to hold its shape and glossy peaks form. This is the most stable meringue and is good for piping and baking into cookies and cakes, she said.

Know the enemies • While it all sounds fairly simple, mastering meringue means knowing the adversaries that can prevent lightness and volume.

"Egg whites and fat are mortal enemies," said Rasmussen. If there's even a speck of oil in the bowl or on the whisk, your whites will not beat properly. So before you whip egg whites, wash your mixing bowl and whisk with warm, soapy water and dry thoroughly.

When separating your eggs, make sure none of the yolk makes it into the bowl with the whites, as it also can negatively affect the meringue, explained Robert Angelilli, the chef at Gourmandise Bakery in Salt Lake City.

"Any speck of yolk and you'll have a hard time getting the proper volume," he said, "and trying to fish it out doesn't work."

Believe him. He's tried.

Transferring the egg yolk from shell to shell, while the whites drip to a bowl, is the most common method of separating eggs, but it can be risky when making meringues as the sharp egg shell could puncture the yolk. Also, some health experts recommend avoiding this method, since harmful bacteria on the shell could get in contact with the egg.

Angelilli said the best way is to crack the egg into your hand and let the whites dribble through your fingers into a small bowl. Or crack the whole egg into a small bowl and scoop out the yolk with your fingers. Put the yolk in a separate container and save it for another use. Pour the white into the mixing bowl you plan to use. Separating each egg in a small bowl first means if the yolk does break, you won't have to throw out the entire bowl of egg whites.

Angelilli said fresh eggs work better for meringues as the yolks are stiffer and not as easy to break. "It's opposite of hard-boiled eggs where older eggs work better," he said.

Welcome friends • Many cooking experts insist on using a copper bowl for beating egg whites, as the metal creates a chemical reaction that will boost the volume. But for everyday cooks, stainless-steel and glass bowls work just fine. Avoid plastic bowls, though, as they often have traces of grease or fat, which prevents the whites from getting stiff.

While it might be possible to make meringue with a hand whisk, Angelilli believes a stand mixer with the wire whisk attachment is the best option to get the proper volume. A hand mixer will also work in a pinch, but it can be difficult to keep the beaters running and pour the sugar in.

Successful meringues start with room-temperature egg whites, which incorporate easier, and some sort of acid. While lemon juice will work, cream of tartar is the most common addition. This powdery white substance, a byproduct of winemaking, helps to stabilize the egg foam and increases the volume of the whites.

Sugar is another main component of meringue.

If you are making a Swiss meringue and using a bain marie, Rasmussen said to begin whipping as soon as sugar is added to the egg whites. "Don't let it sit or the sugar will suck all the moisture out of the egg whites and clumps will form."

If you're making a French meringue, the sugar should be added near the end of mixing when whites have formed soft peaks. "Wait until they get foamy and have a little bit of volume," said Angelilli, then you can gradually add the sugar, a few spoonfuls at a time while continuously beating.

As a rule, add at least 2 tablespoons of granulated or superfine sugar for each egg white, or up to 1/4 cup if you want. Any less and the foam will not set and the meringue will shrink.

To tell if the sugar is dissolved when you are beating egg whites for meringues, rub a bit of the foam between your fingers. If it feels gritty, the sugar is not dissolved, so keep beating until it feels completely smooth.

kathys@sltrib.com

Easy meringue cookies

3/4 cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch

4 large egg whites

3/4 teaspoon real vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon salt

Heat oven to 225 degrees. In a small bowl, combine sugar and cornstarch, mixing until well combined.

In the bowl of an electric stand mixer with the wire whisk attachment, beat egg whites, vanilla and salt at high speed for 30-45 seconds or until soft peaks start to form.

Lower speed to medium, and gradually pour sugar/cornstarch mixture down the side of the bowl into the egg whites. When all the sugar mixture is added, stop the mixer and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl.

Return mixture to high speed and beat 45 seconds or until stiff, glossy peaks start to form. Do not overbeat. Turn off mixer and scoop meringue into a pastry bag or use a reusable plastic bag with 1/2-inch corner cut out.

Pipe the meringue into mounds on a cookie sheet. (You can also use two spoons.)

Bake for one hour, rotating pans halfway through cooking. Turn oven off and let the cookies sit inside the oven for at least another hour. Remove from oven and cool slightly. Store in an airtight container.

Servings • 2 dozen

Source: Chef Robert Angelilli, Gourmandise Bakery

Lemon Meringue Pie Parfaits

This is a bright citrusy dessert for spring. Be sure to make the lemon curd the day before you plan to serve this dessert.

Lemon curd

4 large eggs

1 cup sugar

2/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

Zest of 1 lemon, freshly grated

1 1/4 cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Meringue kisses

3 egg whites

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon vanilla

Additional layers

1 (12-ounce) box Nilla Wafers or other butter cookies

Whipped cream, slightly sweetened

Lemon slices, for garnish

The day before you plan to serve this dessert, make the lemon curd. Bring about 1 inch of water to a simmer in a large saucepan. In a mixing bowl that will fit inside the saucepan, whisk the eggs and sugar (away from the saucepan) until light yellow and fluffy. Use a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, if possible.

Whisk in lemon juice and zest. Place the mixing bowl in the saucepan. The bowl's base should be over the simmer water. (Pour out some of the water if necessary). Cook over the simmering water, whisking occasionally, until the mixture is thickened, about 15 minutes. Remove bowl from heat and stir in butter. Cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight. You also can use a double boiler.

For the meringue kisses, line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Heat oven to 200 degrees. Beat egg whites in a small mixing bowl until stiff, fluffy white peaks form. Slowly add sugar, cream of tartar and vanilla and continue to mix. Fill a pastry bag or large zipper-top bag with the meringue and pipe small drops of meringue onto lined cookie sheet. Bake for 3 hours. Kisses will have a light, hollow feel. If they are still sticky, bake a few minutes longer.

To assemble, crumble a few of the Nilla Wafers in the bottom of a clear glass trifle bowl or individual dessert glasses. Spoon in a layer of lemon curd. Follow with a layer of whipped cream and a few meringue kisses. Repeat the layers, ending with the kisses. Garnish with a cookie wedge and a lemon slice.

Servings • 5

Source: Recipes from The Roof: The 100th Anniversary of the Hotel Utah and Joseph Smith Memorial Building

Easy meringue cookies

¾ cup granulated sugar

2 teaspoons cornstarch

4 large egg whites

¾ teaspoon real vanilla extract

1/8 teaspoon salt

Heat oven to 225 degrees. In a small bowl, combine sugar and cornstarch, mixing until well combined.

In the bowl of an electric stand mixer with the wire whisk attachment, beat egg whites, vanilla and salt at high speed for 30-45 seconds or until soft peaks start to form.

Lower speed to medium, and gradually pour sugar/cornstarch mixture down the side of the bowl into the egg whites. When all the sugar mixture is added, stop the mixer and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl.

Return mixture to high speed and beat 45 seconds or until stiff, glossy peaks start to form. Do not overbeat. Turn off mixer and scoop meringue into a pastry bag or use a reusable plastic bag with ½-inch corner cut out.

Pipe the meringue into mounds on a cookie sheet. (You can also use two spoons.)

Bake for one hour, rotating pans halfway through cooking. Turn oven off and let the cookies sit inside the oven for at least another hour. Remove from oven and cool slightly. Store in an airtight container.

Servings • 2 dozen

Source: Chef Robert Angelilli, Gourmandise Bakery Lemon meringue pie parfaits

This is a bright citrusy dessert for spring. Be sure to make the lemon curd the day before you plan to serve this dessert.

Lemon curd

4 large eggs

1 cup sugar

2/3 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

Zest of 1 lemon, freshly grated

1 ¼ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Meringue kisses

3 egg whites

¾ cup sugar

¼ teaspoon cream of tartar

1 teaspoon vanilla

Additional layers

1 (12-ounce) box Nilla Wafers or other butter cookies

Whipped cream, slightly sweetened

Lemon slices, for garnish

The day before you plan to serve this dessert, make the lemon curd. Bring about 1 inch of water to a simmer in a large saucepan. In a mixing bowl, that will fit inside the saucepan, whisk the eggs and sugar (away from the saucepan) until light yellow and fluffy. Use a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment, if possible.

Whisk in lemon juice and zest. Place the mixing bowl in the saucepan. The bowl's base should be over the simmer water. (Pour out some of the water if necessary). Cook over the simmering water, whisking occasionally, until the mixture is thickened, about 15 minutes. Remove bowl from heat and stir in butter. Cool. Cover and refrigerate overnight. You also can use a double boiler.

For the meringue kisses, line a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Heat oven to 200 degrees. Beat egg whites in a small mixing bowl until stiff, fluffy white peaks form. Slowly add sugar, cream of tartar and vanilla and continue to mix. Fill a pastry bag or large zipper-top bag with the meringue and pipe small drops of meringue onto lined cookie sheet. Bake for 3 hours. Kisses will have a light, hollow feel. If they are still sticky, bake a few minutes longer.

To assemble, crumble a few of the Nilla Wafers in the bottom of a clear glass trifle bowl or individual dessert glasses. Spoon in a layer of lemon curd. Follow with a layer of whipped cream and a few meringue kisses. Repeat the layers, ending with the kisses. Garnish with a cookie wedge and a lemon slice.

Servings • 5

Source: Recipes from The Roof: The 100th Anniversary of the Hotel Utah and Joseph Smith Memorial Building