Bryce Canyon National Park » The winter scenery in Utah's highest-elevation national park will take your breath away. But, unlike the summer months, you can't count on another visitor being around to take your picture with the famous hoodoos in the background.
The park is pretty quiet in the winter months, but visitors seeking even more solitude can click into a pair of cross-country skis and glide along the Bryce Canyon rim for a unique experience.
"The canyon is fantastic and even more beautiful in the winter with the snow on the cliffs. There was no one around; we felt like we had the place to ourselves," said Paul Corvi of San Francisco, who visited the national park in January with his wife, Rosalinda.
The Corvis were on a winter drive from their residence in California to Arizona to visit family and had thrown their cross-country skis in the van just in case they found somewhere to use them. They inquired about skiing while visiting Zion National Park, but were told their best bet to cross-country ski a national park in Utah was Bryce.
The Corvis are among many guests who are amazed to hear about the possibility of gliding through the forest on the rim of Bryce Canyon.
"A lot of folks are surprised by the snow in general when they arrive here in the winter," said Mark Hnat, deputy chief ranger at Bryce Canyon National Park. "They think we are so close to the desert and so close to lower elevations that we wouldn't get enough snow for skiing."
In fact, the snowfall at Bryce varies so much from winter to winter that there are some years when skiing can't be accomplished at the national park. But, more often than not, there is enough snowfall to sneak at least one touring trip in each year.
When snow is less than a foot deep, the Fairyland and Paria roads are the only possible ski routes in the park, but there is also a groomed track for skiing at the nearby Ruby's Inn in Bryce Canyon City. If you show up at Bryce and don't have skis, but are enticed to take a turn, rentals are available at Ruby's Inn.
There are no permits required for day skiing, but if you plan on spending the night in the backcountry on skis, a permit is needed.
The ski trails are pretty obvious unless there has been a serious dump, and it is best to follow the existing track when possible. People are allowed to venture off the beaten path if they like, but don't get visions of playing slalom racer in the hoodoos.
"Just make sure you aren't damaging live trees or pushing stuff off the rim," Hnat said. "Skiing is prohibited under the rim and in the amphitheaters. That is due to possible erosion problems and safety concerns."
The park newsletter includes a warning about the possibility of a "lethal form of mixed snow and mud" avalanches. Visitors are allowed to travel below the rim on designated trails, but snowshoes or hiking boots with ice griping claws are suggested.
Hnat and his wife, Shoshanna, enjoy skiing the park whenever work schedules allow. They frequently have the trails to themselves, but always strike up a conversation when they do meet other skiers or snowshoers.
"It is a lot like the summer. We see all kinds of people and hear a lot of different languages. It seems like there are a lot of people from Europe," Shoshanna Hnat said. "We also see skiers of various skill levels -- [from] those out for the first time to those who really know what they are doing -- but everybody is just out to have a good time and excited to talk about how beautiful it is."
Quiet visitors may also see a wide collection of wildlife during the winter months. Mule deer, rabbits and a vast variety of birds stay on the plateau in the winter.
Planning a trip to Bryce in the winter -- when the average temperature in January is 39 with a record low of -30 -- is not much different from traveling there in the middle of summer.
You will need some extra layering, of course, but the essentials are still a must.
"Make sure you are prepared for anything," Hnat said. "Sunscreen, water, extra clothing and snack food are things you should have with you anytime you leave the roads."
Don't want to bother with lift lines? Then consider Nordic skiing at one of many Utah venues or forests that cater to this aerobic sport. Here's a list of places to participate in classic or skate style cross-country skiing.
Soldier Hollow » The site of Nordic and biathlon events during the 2002 Winter Olympics, this center in Midway offers 31 kilometers of classic and skating trails, plus a biathlon range, and is considered part of Wasatch Mountain State Park. The adult day rate is $18, or $15 after 2 p.m. Juniors (7-17) rates are $9 and $6, respectively, and senior rates are $15 and $12. Children under 7 are free. Season passes are also available. The trails and lodge are open daily, 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., from Dec. 5 through March 28. The facility offers lessons, clinics, rentals, a snowshoe trail, tubing hill and a lodge. Call 435-654-2002 or visit soldierhollow.com for more information.
Mountain Dell Golf Course » The Utah Nordic Alliance (TUNA), in cooperation with Salt Lake City Golf, has permission from the city to groom classic and skating trails for a variety of ability levels at this Parleys Canyon golf course. The cost is $5 per day, $50 for a season pass for TUNA members, and $70 for a season pass for others. Juniors 15 years and younger ski free. Visit utahnordic.com for more information.
White Pine Touring Center » This Park City area center is Utah's oldest. White Pine manages 20 kilometers of groomed classic and skating trails winding through meadows and condos. A day pass is $18 ($10 after 3 p.m.), $8 for youth 6-12. Anyone younger than 6 or older than 64 is free. Season passes are also available. Call 435-649-6249 or visit whitepinetouring.com for more information.
Snowbasin » The Snowbasin Resort, east of Ogden, grooms and maintains 26 kilometers of Nordic trails, with both skating and classic style opportunities. Use of the trails, which begin near the Olympic parking lot, is free. Equipment rentals are available at the resort. Visit www.snowbasin.com/winter/nordic_skiing.asp for more information.
Solitude Nordic Center » There are more than 20 kilometers of trails at this center at the top of Big Cottonwood Canyon between the Brighton and Solitude ski areas. An adult day pass is $15; a half-day, which starts at 12:30 p.m., is $10. Seniors over 70 and children 10 and younger are free. Season passes and equipment rentals are available. Call 801-536-5774 or visit www.skisolitude.com/winter/nordic_center for more information.
Sundance Nordic Center » You'll find rentals, lessons and more than 26 kilometers of groomed trail for skating and classic-style at Sundance in Provo Canyon. An adult day pass is $16, half-day $12. The junior (ages 11-17) pass is $9 and $6. Seniors and children under 10 are free. Call 801-223-4170 or visit www.sundanceresort.com/explore/wnt_cc for more information.
Ruby's Inn » The skiing is free and rentals are available at this destination hotel near the entrance to Bryce Canyon National Park. On years when there is enough snow, this can be the ultimate Nordic experience. The annual Bryce Canyon Winter Festival, held each year on Presidents Day weekend, is a must. Call 435-834-5341 or visit rubysinn.com for more information.
Beaver Creek Ski Trail, Uinta Mountains » The six-mile trail between Yellow Pine and North Fork trailhead areas is groomed. This is a great family skiing destination. There is a $6 (three-day pass) fee to park along the Mirror Lake Highway. Dogs are allowed only on odd-numbered days. Call the Kamas Ranger District at 435-783-4338 for more information.
Mill Creek Canyon » Mill Creek Canyon, accessed at 3800 South and Wasatch Boulevard, is popular with skiers looking for a quick workout close to home. Classic and skate tracks are set. Dogs are allowed in Mill Creek Canyon on odd days. There is a $3-per-car fee collected as you leave the canyon. A $40 yearly pass is also available.
Alta » Alta, at the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon, offers 5 kilometers of groomed track. The Nordic Pass is $10 and a season pass is $99. Classic and skate ski equipment rentals are available. Visit alta.com/pages/xc.php for more information.
Feb. 12-15 at Ruby's Inn in Bryce City
This festival is held annually on Presidents Day weekend. The main event is a cross-country skiing and archery biathlon. Here's a list of the events:
Bryce Canyon National Park events
Feb. 12
11:30 a.m. » Geology talk at Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.
2 p.m. » Snowshoe hike in Bryce Canyon National Park, sign up at visitor center by1:30 p.m.
7 p.m. » "Astronomy Through the Ages" presentation at the visitor center in Bryce Canyon National Park.
Feb. 13
11:30 a.m. » Geology talk at Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.
2 p.m. » Snowshoe hike in Bryce Canyon National Park, sign up at visitor center by1:30 p.m.
7 p.m. » "Dark Wars" astronomy presentation by ranger Kevin Poe at the Bryce Canyon National Park visitor center
Feb. 14
11:30 a.m. » Geology talk at Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.
2 p.m. » Snowshoe hike in Bryce Canyon National Park, sign up at visitor center by :30 p.m.
Feb. 15
11:30 a.m. » Geology talk at Sunset Point, Bryce Canyon National Park.
2 p.m.» Snowshoe hike in Bryce Canyon National Park, sign up at visitor center by1:30 p.m.
Events at Ruby's Inn
Kayaking demos
Half-hour kayaking demos will be held in the pool Feb. 13 and 14. Equipment is limited and registration is required. The first session at 10 a.m. on both days is limited to adults. Charlie Butler, co-owner of Wasatch Touring, along with his wife, Karen, and friends, will help you stay afloat.
Basic yoga
Open to everyone -- from beginner to experienced yoga practitioner. Basic yoga is an introduction to Anusara Yoga, breathing techniques and beginning poses. Wear comfortable exercise clothing. Please bring your own mat and props if you have them. Bonnie and Larry O'Neil will teach the class. Time to be determined.
Watercolor classes
Orem artist Brian Thayne will teach the basics of watercolor painting. Thayne will do a watercolor demo on Saturday in Ruby's Inn lobby. He will also have artwork displayed in the lobby. He will offer watercolor classes: one for adults and two for children. The kids class is limited to 35 per class (one session on Saturday and one on Sunday). Registration is required.
Archery biathlon, Feb. 14
Open to all ages and abilities. Entrants must participate in Saturday's archery clinic or demonstrate proficiency in archery. $10 entry fee includes a long-sleeved T-shirt. Register Saturday from 5-8 p.m. or before 10 a.m. Sunday. The 12-and-under kids race starts at 11 a.m. on Sunday. The 6K competition will follow. Limited equipment is available for use. Bring your own if you have it. Awards ceremony will be held in the Red Canyon Room at 5 p.m.
Cross-country ski races, Feb, 15
The kids 2K race starts at 9:30 a.m. The 10K free-technique race starts at 10 a.m.. Entry fee is $10 and includes a long sleeved T-shirt. Register at the festival registration desk Sunday evening or up to a half-hour before event begins.
Valentine's dance, Feb. 13
An hour of Western dance instruction is being held at Ebenezer's Barn and Grill starting at 7:30 p.m.
Speaker Carol Masheter, Feb. 14
Carol Masheter, Ph.D., is the oldest U.S. woman and the second-oldest woman in the world to have sumitted Everest at age 61 years, 7 months and 17 days on May 24, 2008. She currently works in Salt Lake City as an epidemiologist for the Utah Department of Health. A lifelong learner, she enjoys her work in public health, mountaineering, hiking, snowshoeing, running, biking, gardening and learning new things. Masheter is writing a book about her climb of Everest.
