This summer, Wild Oats unveiled its Choose Local program in its 113 natural-foods markets across North America, buying more than 7,200 locally produced food items from about 3,500 farmers, food artisans and manufacturers in all 50 states.

About that same time, Bob Harmon gave tours of his family's Brickyard store in Salt Lake City, showing off fresh food with no preservatives and local produce, such as melons from Hurricane and year-round tomatoes from Castle Valley geothermal greenhouses in central Utah.

"The concept of small stores with strong ties to local farmers and producers never left New York City," said Harmon. "That's what we're trying to get back to, so we can offer fresh, better-tasting food that's healthier than something loaded with preservatives to make a long trip."

Old-fashioned fruit and vegetable stands are also popping up in urban areas. Nationally, farmers markets have more than doubled since 1994, to more than 3,700, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

In West Valley City, when Brocks Produce had to move one of its three stands, Harmon invited the family to sell its vegetables in the parking lot of one of his stores at 3955 W. 3500 South, at no charge.

"They even had a sign made up that said 'Harmons - Keeping Brocks in Your Neighborhood,' '' said Anita Brock.

The Brocks' selling season is over, but Harmons still sells Utah products, starting at its entrance with fresh pumpkins for pies.

The state Department of Agriculture began its Utah's Own label this year to ensure products touted as local are exactly that.

The label also is awarded to Utah companies that manufacture locally grown food, such as Chaparros Tamales from Sunset, Cattlemen's Grill in Ogden, Virgin Veggies in West Hurricane and Direct Beef, based in Salt Lake City, a company of growers and producers who provide bulk cut sales to consumers.

"We're a fifth-generation ranching family out of Tooele County," said Ryan Clegg. "People know where the beef is coming from, how it's treated and what it's fed."

There's also Oakdale Eggs in North Salt Lake, Weeks Berries of Paradise and Volkers Bakery in West Kamas, which often sends trucks to local farmers markets to sell baked goods.

One way to ensure access to local fruits and vegetables is to join a Community Supported Agriculture program. Customers buy into a farm in advance, then receive deliveries of crops throughout the summer and fall.

The rising demand for fresh-picked produce prompted John Borski to limit his customers to 350 in a community supported plan offered through his Kaysville organic farm. Borski also supplies produce for farmers markets and area restaurants.

Borski has nearly become an institution with his organic fare. Shunning pesticides, his main backup for getting rid of pests: "My own two fingers."

dhouse@sltrib.com