This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2016, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.

I might not agree, but I understand why restaurateurs make certain choices.

Calling a dish Thai basil stir fried probably has broader appeal than its more exotic-sounding name: pad ga prow.

I get it when spice levels are ratcheted down from the nuclear levels I prefer. I have friends who faint merely reading the words scotch bonnet; meanwhile, others think I'm wittering on about knitted hats.

Country-style chicken salad ($10.95) at Krua Thai will be more familiar to Thai cuisine aficionados by its more traditional name, larb gai. Ground chicken is sharply seasoned with lime juice and copious flurries of sliced red onion. Fish sauce, garlic and rice powder add depth, while chiles are tempered by refreshing mint leaves. A ball of sticky rice completes the dish on the side as both carb and carrier. It's a terrifically energizing and vibrant dish encompassing all that's great about Thai cuisine, and it's enjoyably executed at Krua Thai. Chicken salad, of course, sounds more compelling and soothing than larb, but whatever you call it, it's a rewarding dish.

The same can't be said for many of the appetizers. Veggie tempura ($6.95) was snooze-inducing with an unremarkable batter, albeit generous in portion. Satay kai ($7.95) — four grilled skewers of marinated chicken — was thwarted by its dryness, and a plate of six pot stickers ($6.95) was plodding. Nothing here will cause you to weep; it's all perfectly safe and sedate, which is fine if that's your cup of chamomile.

Curry puffs ($7.95) are equally conservative — triangular pockets of flaky pastry, stuffed with gently spiced mashed spuds. That said, our waitress kindly provided our party of four with a plate of four, rather than the advertised trio, at no extra cost nor fuss; a classy touch, to be sure, and indicative of one of Krua Thai's finest features, the accommodating and friendly staff.

Entrées are a mixed bag and in parts mirror the muted approach of the appetizers. A Massaman curry ($11.95) studded with soft potato was lackluster and went largely untouched by our table of excessively keen eaters. But Thai basil stir fried ($11.95) went in seconds. It's a dish hard to go wrong with, in fairness: an addictive stir fry of onion, bell peppers, garlic, Thai basil, chile and your choice of protein.

In contrast to some of the subdued items, spicy seafood soup ($16.95) delivered an unexpected mighty right hook of spice to the palate. Mussels, squid, prawn and salmon are served in a fiery broth kept warm by a Sterno-heated, hot-pot bowl. The dish was maddeningly at odds with one of the specials we ordered, though. Panang pasta curry ($17.95) sounded intriguing enough to raise both of my jaded eyebrows, but was in reality a fairly timid curry poured over basic spaghetti with a similar mix of seafood.

Another special, green curry Thai fried rice ($10.95), was redeeming and quite superior. Green curry paste is diffused through a standard preparation of Thai fried rice with chicken; this simple twist alone made enough of an impact to keep those eyebrows raised and start the head nodding, too. Best I could tell, these specials are only listed on a board on the street outside, so be alert.

A recommendation from our waitress, Krua Thai salmon in chile sauce ($16.95), was good. A deep-fried filet of salmon comes bathed in sticky, sweet and spicy sauce. Mind you, if the side of blanched broccoli, carrots and bell pepper hadn't been plated on the side, no one would have noticed nor cared.

Despite moments of bashfulness, Krua Thai isn't without its charms. Regardless of execution, I don't recall the last time I saw a local Thai restaurant even attempt specials. That extra curry puff, local beer in the form of Uinta Cutthroat ($4) — heck, even a free pot of (admittedly so-so) ice cream to end the meal one evening — these are all welcome touches. While aficionados might fault the pedestrian execution, newcomers to Thai cuisine will find an accessible way to join the rest of us.

Stuart Melling also writes at http://www.theutahreview.com and http://www.gastronomicslc.com — he can be found on Twitter @gastronomicslc . —

Hhj

Krua Thai

Food • Hhj

Mood • Hhj

Service • HH

Noise • bb

An accessible, albeit safe, introduction to Thai cuisine in downtown Salt Lake City. Favorites include Thai basil stir fried, Krua Thai salmon in chile sauce and Thai fried rice.

Location • 212 E. 500 South, Salt Lake City; 801-328-4401

Online • kruathaislc.com

Hours • Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Saturday, 12:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Children's menu • No

Prices • $$

Liquor • Beer and wine

Reservations • No

Takeout • Yes

Wheelchair access • Yes

Outdoor dining • No

On-site parking • Street

Credit cards • All major