the poor potato,

maligned for its high level of starches.

Yet spuds seem to have weathered the carbohydrate-cutting,

and more varieties of the high-energy taters

are arriving all the time in grocery stores and farmers markets.

There's no doubt these tubers are high in carbohydrates and are one of the foods that can significantly raise a person's blood-sugar levels. The average russet potato has about 30 grams of carbohydrates, or "starch." The human body breaks down the starch, turns it into sugar and then absorbs it into the bloodstream where it is distributed to the areas that need energy.

But in addition to starch, potatoes have more potassium than broccoli or bananas and are a source of fiber and vitamins C and B. In their pure form - no sour cream or cheese - a 5 1/2 -ounce baked potato, with the skin left on, has only 130 calories and is fat- and cholesterol-free.

There other reasons to love potatoes. They can be mashed, baked, shredded, fried, roasted and grilled. We can turn them into chips, pancakes, salads, soups or a beverage (think vodka).

And while there once was just the rugged, brown-skinned russet, grocery stores and farmers markets now offer potatoes that range from pink to deep purple in all sorts of round and fingerling shapes.

The low cost of potatoes - a 10-pound bag of russets is sometimes sold for as little as $1 - also makes them irresistible for those on a budget.

First cultivated about 2,000 years ago in the mountains of Peru, the potato made its way to Europe in the 1500s and spread throughout the world. The vegetable became such a staple in Ireland than when a fungus wiped out the crop in the late 1830s, millions died or left for America.

In this country, it's not unheard of to eat hash browns for breakfast, fries for lunch and potatoes au gratin for dinner.

That is part of the reason that nearly 10 million weight-conscious Americans gravitated to the no-carb diets such as Atkins, South Beach and the Zone in recent years. They could quickly shed pounds by eating more protein and fewer high-carbohydrate foods, namely those that contained processed sugars and flours.

Potatoes were part of the "bad carb" category. Some health experts (as well as the U.S. Potato Board industry group) said the claims were unfair since it's the number of calories consumed - and burned - in a day that determines weight and overall health.

Still, the $3 billion fresh potato industry took a significant hit from carb counters. Total consumption in 2004 dropped more than 16 percent, said John Pope, vice president of marketing for MountainKing Potato, one of the largest producers of specialty potato varieties in North America.

Over the past three to six months, however, sales at MountainKing, which has its farms in Monte Vista, Colo., has seen sales return to near pre-Atkins levels.

Even with all the carb cutting, the average American still consumed 136 pounds of potatoes last year, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The potato industry has decided to promote the vitamins and minerals found in potatoes, such as potassium, which may reduce the risk of high blood pressure and stroke. It recently started the consumer campaign "Get the Skinny on America's Favorite Vegetable: The Healthy Potato."

Culinary experts say we tend to eat different potatoes in different ways depending on the amount of starch they have.

Russets, for example are high in starch. They have a dry texture, which makes them good for baking and frying. They also absorb liquids, making them good for casseroles and gratins filled with cream and butter.

Low-starch varieties, such as red potatoes and white boiling potatoes, do not absorb as much liquid and will hold their shape during cooking. Use these for potato salads, chowders, soups, hash browns and for roasting.

Finally there are medium-starch potatoes that fall somewhere between. These "all-purpose" potatoes are usually yellow-fleshed varieties such as Yukon Gold and are good for just about everything, except baking and frying.

Rachel Cox, a registered dietitian with the Utah Department of Health, said cooks tend to "doll up" thick-skinned russets with butter, cheese and cream.

"We prepare the lighter-skinned differently," she said, noting that it's not uncommon to see steamed red potatoes with green beans or other vegetables, lightly drizzled with canola or olive oil. "That's a healthy way to eat potatoes," she said.

If a baked russet is a must, dress it up with salsa, low-fat chili or steamed broccoli and "a little bit of cheese." Or, she said, think about baking or roasting sweet potatoes, which have even more power-packed nutrition.

But there is room - every once in awhile - for a cheesy potato casserole, said former Utah resident and cookbook author Stephanie Ashcraft, whose 101 Things to Do with a Potato hit bookstores last fall.

The book contains many Ashcraft family recipes (her father-in-law is an Idaho potato farmer). The book has sold nearly 35,000 copies, according to publisher Gibbs Smith, proof that low-carb may be subsiding.

"People have gotten tired of no-carb and are trying to find a balance," said Ashcraft. "They realize that for generations and generations people have been eating potatoes. They are one of those life staples and comfort foods."

kathys@sltrib.com

Know Your Spuds

Russet: Also called Idaho or Burbank, these are hardy potatoes with dark-brown skin and oblong shape. They are the ultimate high-starch potato. When cooked they are fluffy and dry, making them good choice for mashing, frying or baking.

Red: Also called boiling potatoes, they have a dusky red skin and are about 2 to 3 inches around. Because they are low in starch, they hold their shape during cooking. Use them for potato salads, roasting and steaming.

White: Often called all-purpose potatoes, they are usually long and oval, with a cream-colored skin. Medium starch content. Good roasted, boiled and steamed.

Yukon gold: An all-purpose, medium-starch potato with a gold skin and flesh. Has a dense texture and buttery flavor. Good choice for calorie counters who want to enjoy mashed potatoes but want to use less butter and cream.

Fingerling: Named for its narrow, fingerlike shape. Low in starch. Good roasted, steamed or boiled.

Blue or Purple: One of the many heirloom varieties. Color ranges from lavender to deep purple. Waxy flesh is good for salads, roasting and boiling. Has thick skins that need to be peeled (after boiling is easiest).

-Sources: "One Potato, Two Potato" by Roy Finnamore; Williams-Sonoma Potato

Roasted Gold Potatoes

1 3/4 pounds butter gold or Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 garlic cloves, minced

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil

Coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 sprig fresh rosemary, picked

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Place potatoes and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss to coat. Roast until dark golden brown, 30 to 45 minutes. During the last 5 minutes, increase the temperature to 500 degrees, and sprinkle with rosemary. Remove from oven, and serve.

- MountainKing Potatoes

Aunt Cosette's Gnocchi Potato Dumplings

16 cups water

2 teaspoons salt

2 medium russet potatoes, baked, peeled and mashed

2 cups flour

2 (26-ounce) jars chunky spaghetti sauce, heated

In a 6-quart soup pan bring water and salt to a boil.

In a separate bowl, combine warm mashed potatoes and flour to make a uniform and tender dough, not sticky. Divide dough into four sections. Roll each section into a 3/4 -inch thick rope. Cut rope into 3/4 -inch pieces. Roll pieces into balls, push your thumb into the center of each ball, making a dent. Drop into boiling water. Dough balls will fall to the bottom of pan. Once they float to the top, remove and strain 2 to 3 minutes. Repeat until all the dough is cooked. Transfer dumplings to a serving dish and cover with spaghetti sauce. Serve immediately.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.

-"101 Things to Do With a Potato"

Potato Nachos

1 1/2 pounds russet potatoes

1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1/2 teaspoon garlic salt

1 teaspoon Mexican seasoning blend

1 cup Mexican blend shredded cheese

1/4 cup canned black beans, rinsed and drained

1/4 cup diced tomatoes

1/4 cup sliced black olives, sliced

1/4 cup sliced green onions

3 tablespoons canned diced green chilies

Salsa, for garnish

Guacamole, for garnish

Sour cream, for garnish

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Scrub potatoes and cut into 1/2 -inch-thick wedges. Place potatoes in a medium-size bowl. Add oil, garlic salt and Mexican seasoning. Stir until potatoes are coated with oil and seasonings. Transfer potatoes to a large baking sheet. Spread into a single layer.

Bake 25 to 30 minutes, stirring several times until crisp and golden brown.

Remove from oven and sprinkle with cheese, beans, tomatoes, olives, onions and chilies. Return to oven and bake 5 minutes or until cheese is melted. Serve with salsa, guacamole and sour cream.

Makes 4 servings.

-U.S. Potato Board