There are of course many factors that affect these kinds of shifts and in this case the overwhelmingly pivotal factor seems to be the economy. With the dollar suffering against the euro, the old mainstay value wines of Spain, Italy and France are no more which has made the significance of countries such as Argentina and Chile all the more potent.

Malbec's roots can be traced back the northern Burgundy in Auxerrois but became a mainstay of the Bordeaux industry for many years. Due to its tendency toward frost damage, mildew and rot Malbec became a grape primarily used from blending. In the region of Cahors, Malbec has held steady over the years as the region's primary variety and due to its stiff tannins and dark color has gained the reputation of ³the black wine of Cahors.² While these wines can be stunning, the region where Malbec is celebrated the most is Argentina.

Argentina is certainly thought of as a "New World" country but its wine industry is far from new. Vines were first planted in Argentina in 1560 and have been commercially cultivated for wine since the 1580s. Like many places in the world, its wine industry has experienced something of a revolution in the last thirty years and Malbec has been the face of all the unrest. Argentina's ample sunlight and varied soil types can create many environments perfectly suited for this ancient variety and many Argentine winemakers have taken full advantage of grape by applying fine viticultural practices matched by up to date vinification.

---

ZEV ROVINE is a certified sommelier. Send comments to livingeditor@sltrib.com.

Three wines to try

2005 CHATEAU DU CEDRÉ ($15) This wine, from Malbec's old stomping grounds Cahors, is a great example of inky black Cahors of a fine pedigree. Chateau du Cedré has long been known to produce some of the regions best wines and for the buck this one is hard to beat. Lots of black fruit and vanilla coat the stiff tannins and an anise-filled finish.

2006 PASCAL TOSO MALBEC RESERVE ($20) This wine is as far from Cahors as it gets. The fruit is ripe and full, the tannins are round and soft and the oak is all over the place. This is a very well balanced mouthful of Malbec from Argentina's Maipu Valley.

2006 ACHAVAL FERRER MALBEC ($22) From one of Argentina's most respected houses, the '06 Malbec is a great example of tannic, full, round and intriguing Malbec. Packed with all sorts of spice, tobacco and ripe fruit, this wine makes me want some smoked meats and grilled vegetables.