Contrary to its general overproduction, chard is however arguably the greatest white grape out there and those who use it properly make wines of stunning complexity and form.
Chardonnay is easily adaptable to many climatic conditions and soil variations, so it is natural that everyone makes a go at it, but its home lies in France, where it is the soul source of the greatest white Burgundy wines and is one of three varieties in the champagne blend. It also has found a true home in Napa Valley where the best are packed with ripe fruit, bright acidity and body to spare.
The all-too-common error in chardonnay production is the heavy use of oak in the aging process. Oak is often described as having a vanilla or dill flavor when applied to a wine and, in large doses, can overwhelm a wine to the point where you no longer taste chardonnay, and instead you experience a creamy, vanilla-flavored cocktail. I don't know about you, but I want to taste wine in my wine, not oak.
One of my favorite pairings is white Burgundy with pork chops. Fear not the roasted chicken and Napa chard pairing, and know that it is a good day when mussels and white Burgundy meet.
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* ZEV ROVINE, a certified sommelier, teaches wine classes at Spotted Frog Bookstore and Wine Bar in Park City. To comment on this column, e-mail livingeditor@sltrib.com.
Three wines to try
* 2005 CEAGO CHARDONNAY ($15) This biodynamic producer makes a clean and bright chard. Green apple and pear dominate the bouquet while the palate expresses mineral characters and strawberries. This one is a steal.
* 2005 MAISON LOUIS LATOUR SAINT VERAN LES DEUX MOULINS ($17) From the Maconnais region of Burgundy, this wine has aromas of apricot and lime. The finish develops into floral notes of acacia and honeysuckle. A great buy.
* 2004 VINCENT GIRARDIN PULIGNY-MONTRACHET VIELLES VIGNES ($45) A powerful white Burgundy with a slight aroma of vanilla and an abundance of ripe, elegant fruit. Mineral and floral flavors line the palate but what's really striking is the texture of pure velvet. Serve at 55 degrees.
