* WHAT IS IT? This fragrant, drought-tolerant plant is indigenous to the Mediterranean region and can be used in everything from cookies to soup. There are many varieties, but English lavender is best for cooking. Lavender is one of the components in herbes de Provence - a blend of basil, fennel, marjoram, rosemary, sage, savory and thyme commonly used in southern France.

* HOW TO USE? Use lavender sparingly, as the flavor can be overpowering. Add a sprig to sugar and allow it to sit for a few weeks. Use flowers in a dry rub or marinade. Use stems as skewers for vegetables and meat.

* LOOK FOR: Whether dried or fresh, flowers should still be fragrant. Avoid using flowers that may have been sprayed with insecticides.

* STORAGE: Use fresh lavender immediately or tie in a bunch and dry. Store dried flowers in an airtight container in dark, cool area away from heat or sunlight.

- Rana Miller Weales

Lavender-blueberry soup

2 quarts fresh blueberries

1 cup dry red wine

1 1/2 cups water

6 tablespoons honey

1/4 cup frozen orange juice concentrate

1 1/2 tablespoons dried lavender flowers

Zest and juice of 1 large lemon

1 (4-inch) cinnamon stick

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Garnishes:

Crème fraîche

Whole blueberries

Fresh mint sprigs

In a pot, combine blueberries, wine, water, honey, orange juice, lavender, lemon zest, lemon juice, cinnamon stick, pepper and cloves. Bring just to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer 8 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick.

Soup can be served hot or cold. Garnish with a dollop of crème fraîche, fresh blueberries and a sprig of fresh mint.

Source: From Earth to the Table by John Ash with Sid Goldstein (Chronicle Books, $24.95)