WHAT IS IT? A dark green herb with a strong licorice-like flavor and long, slender leaves. Used extensively in French cooking and considered one of the four "fine" herbs, along with parsley, chervil and chives. The French variety is most commonly sold in grocery stores, while the Russian kind is more popular for home gardens.

HOW TO USE? In egg dishes and seafood. Use to make flavored vinegar.

LOOK FOR: Dark green leaves with a faint smell of licorice or anise. Avoid mushy and "off" smelling herbs. Dried tarragon should still have a strong aroma.

STORAGE: Store in the warmest part of the refrigerator or freeze in airtight plastic bags.

-- Rana Miller Weales

Tarragon vinegar

1/2 cup fresh tarragon leaves

2 cups white wine vinegar

1 (1 1/2 pint or larger) glass jar with a nonmetallic lid

2 or 3 whole tarragon sprigs, optional

Rinse and thoroughly pat dry tarragon leaves. Crush slightly with a pestle or rolling pin to release flavor. Place in a large, sterilized glass jar that will hold at least 1 1/2 pints.

Heat vinegar in a pan to just below boiling point. Pour hot vinegar over herbs and let cool to room temperature. Seal jar tightly with a nonmetallic lid (or use a layer of plastic wrap to keep the vinegar from coming in contact with a metal lid). Store vinegar in a cool, dark place for about 3 weeks.

Strain vinegar through a coffee filter to clarify. Discard tarragon leaves. Transfer vinegar to a decorative bottle and add 2 or 3 sprigs of fresh tarragon, if desired. Seal bottle tightly with a nonmetallic lid. Vinegar can be refrigerated for up to 6 months.

Makes 2 cups.

Source: Food to Live By by Myra Goodman (Workman Publishing Company, $21.95)