* HOW TO USE? Use the white to light green part of the leek. Leeks may be most known as an ingredient in vichyssoise - a cold potato and leek soup. But leeks can be substitutes for onions for a less pronounced onion flavor. Because of growing conditions, leeks need to be thoroughly washed to remove the dirt that collects between the layers. Cut off the small tentacle-like roots, also known as the beard, without cutting off the whole root. This allows the leek to remain intact. Slice the leek in half lengthwise and plunge each half in water until the sand and grit is washed out.

* LOOK FOR: Vibrant green leaves with a white base. Avoid limp leeks. A bulb-shaped base indicates an older leek which may be tough in the center.

* STORAGE: Store unwashed in a loosely wrapped plastic bag in the refrigerator for about 1 week.

- Rana Miller-Weales

Leek and feta pithiviers

1 package frozen puff pastry, thawed

4 leeks, trimmed and washed

3 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons honey

1 teaspoon chopped rosemary

Salt and black pepper

7 ounces feta cheese

1 egg, beaten

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Spread the puff pastry on a floured surface and cut out 12 disks about 5 inches in diameter. Chill the disks while making the filling.

Slice the leeks thinly. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat and fry the leeks, about 10 minutes, until softened and transparent. Stir in the honey and rosemary. Season to taste with salt and pepper and leave to cool. Crumble the cheese and stir into the leek mixture.

Lay six of the pastry disks on a baking sheet and divide the leek mixture evenly among them, spooning it into a neat mound in the center, leaving a rim of about 1/2 inch around the edges. Brush the borders with the beaten egg and cover with the remaining disks. Crimp the edges to seal. Score a pattern of radiating lines from the center of the parcels outward, being careful not to cut through the pastry. Brush with more beaten egg.

Bake for about 20 minutes, until puffed up and golden. Serve with spicy chutney. Makes 6 servings.

Source: Seasons: A Year of Great Tastes (DK Publishing, $25)