But liquor lore is heavy here and many customers just won't shed their age-old thinking.
Take, for instance, the number 3.2, which refers to the percent of alcohol - by weight - contained in beer. Under state law, "three-two" beer is all that can be sold in grocery stores or on draft at bars and microbreweries. But Planet Utah is like no other in the universe.
Producers from everywhere else - from California to New York and Belgium to Germany - measure the percent of alcohol in beer by volume. Brewers say it is a significant mathematical difference that is lost on the everyday beer drinker.
"It's apples and oranges," says Beamer, the brew master at Wasatch Brew Pub in Park City.
When measured like the rest of the world, Utah's beer has 4 percent alcohol by volume. And while that is the lowest level in the nation, it is not far behind the national average of mainstream beers, which are about 5 percent.
That means all those youthful drives to Wyoming for "better beer" were probably a waste of time and gas.
"You'd have to drink a lot of beer to notice a 1 percent alcohol difference," said Haas, the brew master at Salt Lake City's Desert Edge Brewery in Trolley Square.
More lore: That brings up Utah Beer Myth No. 2: The point in brewing beer is to have as much alcohol as possible. In reality, beer is not brewed to be as alcoholic as possible - in Utah or anywhere else in the world. Beer is brewed to match a specific style or taste. Each style has a general color, flavor, bitterness and alcohol level.
A German-style pilsener, for example, generally has a light straw or golden color, a moderate flavor and aroma and an alcohol-by-volume level that ranges between 4 and 5 percent. An imperial stout has a dark copper, almost black color, a rich malt flavor and 7 to 12 percent alcohol by volume.
The list goes on since there are dozens of beer styles around the world. The Great American Beer Festival, the Oscars of the beer-making world, has nearly 70 beer-style categories, according to the Brewers Association, which sponsors the annual event.
That means lower-alcohol beers made at Utah's microbreweries - pale ales, English-style browns and bitters - are comparable to those made outside the state.
Many people assume that popular beers, such as Guinness, a dark Irish stout and Corona, a beer from Mexico, have a higher alcohol content everywhere except Utah. But in reality those beers are 4 percent by volume (or 3.2 by weight) all over the country.
Large manufacturers like Budweiser and Coors make their beers fit all the different alcohol rules simply by adding filtered water, according to experts.
Of course, like any craftsperson, Utah brew masters would love to have a full spectrum of beers in their arsenal like a bock (6 to 7 percent alcohol) or a barley wine (8 to 12 percent).
"There are some styles that I'd love to do but will never be able to do unless there's some sort of revelation that happens on the [state Alcohol Beverage Control] commission," said Beamer. "It's happened. I'm not crossing my fingers, but it's happened before."
However, Utah brewers with the ability to bottle their beverages are producing beer with higher alcohol content. Squatters Pub Brewery in Salt Lake City makes an India Pale Ale that is 6 percent alcohol by volume, while Uinta Brewing Company makes a barley wine that is almost 10 percent alcohol. The beers are sold in Utah only at state liquor stores.
Karl Menzer worked as a brew master in Louisiana before coming to Tracks Brewing Co. in Tooele. He said it hasn't been that difficult to adapt to Utah laws.
"There are styles you can't make here, so I concentrate on the summer beers and fall beers instead of the traditional 5 1/2 to 6 percent I made before," he said. "But they are great beers nonetheless."
Smarter brewing: Menzer and other brew masters say working under Utah alcohol limitations has made them better brewers. With a higher alcohol brew, they say, the easier it is to hide any imperfections in the beer.
"That's the beauty of 3.2 beer," said Talley, the brewer master at Squatters Brew Pub. "Everything the brewer puts into a beer is right on the palate. You can't hide behind it."
Because of that, Utah brewers are forced to work smarter than some of their counterparts in other states, paying careful attention to the marriage between their hops and barley, said Talley.
That careful attention has paid off in numerous gold, silver and bronze medals for Utah's microbreweries at the Great American Beer Festival as well as the World Beer Cup.
Sales figures say customers like what they are being served as well. Talley said beer sales at Squatters brew pub grew 11 percent over the last year.
And last year, the Uinta Brewing Co. sold more than 15,000 barrels of beer, moving it out of the smaller "microbrewery" category and into the group known as regional specialty brewers, said Steven Kuftinec, the director of sales and operations.
Utah is following the national trend. In 2005, America's craft brewers sold 9 percent more barrels of beer than the year before.
That made microbrewed beers the fastest growing segment of the U.S. alcohol beverage industry for the second year in a row, according to the Brewers Association.
"Small brewers lead the entire industry by offering flavorful, interesting beers," said Ray Daniels, the associations director of craft beer marketing.
And Utah has some of the best, says Spencer Alston, co-owner of The Bayou private club in Salt Lake City. "We outperform other states on a regular basis."
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Contact Kathy Stephenson at kathys@sltrib.com or 801-257-8612. Send comments to
livingeditor@sltrib.com.
Beer styles, from the light-on-the-pallette pilseners to robust stouts
Ten common beers, and their flavor and color
characteristics. Alcohol percentage listed is by volume, not by weight.
* Bitter: Gold to copper color with light to medium bitterness; 3 to 3.7 percent alcohol.
* German-style pilsener: Light straw or golden color with a bitterness from hops; 4 to 5 percent alcohol.
* English-style summer ale: Light straw to golden color with medium to low bitterness, 3.6 to 5 percent alcohol.
* Oatmeal stout: Full-flavored beer with caramel, chocolate-like flavors and no bitter taste. 3.8 to 6 percent alcohol.
* American-style pale ale: Golden to copper color with medium to high bitterness from American-variety hops: 4.5 to 5.5 percent alcohol.
* Vienna-style lager: Reddish brown or copper color with a slight malty sweetness. 4.8 to 5.4 percent alcohol.
* Heifeweizen: Pale amber with fruity flavors and clove, nutmeg and sometimes vanilla-like aromas. 4 to 6.4 percent alcohol
* Robust porter: Black beer with a roast malt flavor; 5 to 6.5 percent
* Bock: This dark brown beer is strong and malty with moderate bitterness. 6.3 to 7.5 percent alcohol.
* Barley wine-style ale: Tawny copper to dark brown with a full body and high alcohol content: 8.4 to 12 percent alcohol.
-Source: The Brewers Association
Oven-fried chicken with beer and buttermilk
1 cup lager
1 cup buttermilk
1 cup assorted herbs, such as parsley, oregano, marjoram, rosemary, chives and basil, chopped
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1 whole chicken, 3-4 pounds, quartered
2 cups dried bread crumbs
In a large, shallow dish, whisk together the beer, buttermilk, 1/2 cup of the herbs, salt and pepper. Add the chicken, turning to coat on all sides. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 24 hours. Turn the chicken occasionally as it marinates.
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Cover a large baking pan with parchment paper or coat with cooking spray. In a shallow dish, place the bread crumbs and remaining 1/2 cup of herbs. Stir to evenly distribute the herbs.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and drain. Dip each piece of chicken in the crumbs, rolling to coat thoroughly. Place the chicken pieces on the baking pan, leaving space between each piece.
Bake 45 minutes to 1 hour, or until the chicken is golden brown on top and cooked through. The baking time will vary depending on the size of the chicken pieces. To test for doneness, insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the meat. The chicken is done when the internal temperature registers 165 degrees.
Serve the chicken hot, room temperature or cold. Makes 4 servings.
- The National Beer Wholesalers Association
Warm potato salad with lager dressing
2 1/2 pounds red potatoes
1 tablespoon salt
6 tablespoons olive oil, divided
1/2 cup yellow onions, chopped
1 cup lager
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 cup red onions, chopped
1/4 cup parsley, chopped
2 tablespoons chives, chopped
Place the potatoes in a large saucepan with a lid. Cover with cold water, at least two inches above the potatoes. Add the salt. Bring the water to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 25 minutes, or until a knife point can be easily inserted into the potatoes.
Meanwhile, prepare the dressing. In a small frying pan over medium heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the yellow onions and cook, stirring, until translucent, about 5 minutes.
Add the lager, cider vinegar and sugar. Boil 5 minutes. Pour the mixture into a food processor; add the Dijon mustard. Process to chop the onions, slowly adding the remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil. Strain the dressing.
Drain and let the potatoes cool. Quarter the potatoes, leaving the skin on, and place in a medium bowl. Add the red onions, parsley and beer dressing. Toss gently to coat. Top with chopped chives.
Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 6 servings.
- Chef Brett Freifeld, for the National Beer Wholesalers Association
Stop for a drink at one of Utah's brew pubs
Salt Lake City:
Desert Edge Brewery at the Pub, Trolley Square, 602 E. 500 South; 801-521-8917
Red Rock Brewing Co., 254 S. 200 West; 801-521-7446
Squatters, 147 W. Broadway; 801-363-2739
Uinta Brewing, 1722 S. Fremont (2375 West); 801-467-0909
Moab:
Eddie McStiff's, 57 S. Main St.; 435-259-2337
Moab Brewery, 686 S. Main St.; 435-259-6333
Midvale:
Bohemian Brewery and Grill, 94 E. 7200 South; 801-566-5474
Hoppers Grill & Brewing Co., 890 E. Fort Union Blvd.; 801-566-0424
Helper:
Groggs Pinnacle Brewing Co., 1653 N. Carbonville Road; 435- 637-2924
Layton:
Roosters Brewing Co. and Restaurant, 748 Heritage Park Blvd.; 801-774-9330
Ogden/Riverdale:
Roosters 25th Street Brewing Co., 253 Historic 25th Street; 801-627-6171
Ruby River Steak House and Brewery, 4286 Riverdale Road; 801-622-2320
Park City:
Wasatch Brew Pub, 250 Main St.; 801-645-9500
Tooele:
Tracks Brewing Co., 1641 N. Main St.; 435-882-4040 (a private club for members)


