$22 » Fish and vegetables hardly kindle any excitement, but when executed well they are an example of simplicity at its best. Em's is known for seasonal, simple cooking that emphasizes flavors appropriate to a season. In this case, a side of long Romano beans and kernels of sweet corn add dimension to white fish that's neither overcooked nor underdone. With a bit of coaxing from the fork, the flesh gently flakes away from itself and is free to sweep up the tomato-tinged olive oil and creamy, well-seasoned mashed potatoes.

Em's is at 271 N. Center St., SLC; 801-596-0566. Hours are Sunday, 9 a.m.-1 p.m.; Tuesday-Friday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; Wednesday-Sunday, 5:30-9 p.m.

-- Vanessa Chang

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