$13.95 » These days, just about every Italian (to varying degrees) restaurant features this dumpling-cum-pasta. Fluffy potatoes lightly kneaded with flour and eggs -- what's not to like? But it's far too often the case when the texture becomes the afterthought covered in creamy pesto sauce and a blizzard of generic cheese, heft in favor of balance.

Mercifully, Michelangelo's version saves diners from the bad, the gratuitous and the unnecessary with a serving of tiny, fluffy pillows. They resemble mini marshmallows in shape and size and when coated in the bright tomato sauce proves that even these decadent morsels have a lighter no less delicious soul.

Michelangelo Ristorante is at 3005 S. Highland Drive, Salt Lake City; 801-466-0961. Hours are Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Sunday to Thursday, 5 to 9:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5 to 10 p.m.

Vanessa Chang