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Cuisine Quest: Nose-to-tail dining gaining in popularity

Published July 7, 2009 6:00 pm

This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2009, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.

Kidney salad, pickled tongue and poached brains.

It may sound like something from a bad horror movie. But going whole hog -- eating every part of the animal -- has become a growing culinary trend in America. The concept has even made its way to Utah with the recent opening of Tipica in Salt Lake City, which bills itself as a "nose-to-tail" restaurant.

Of course, consuming liver, kidneys, heart, innards and other animal parts -- collectively called "offal" -- is really just a return to how people cooked centuries ago. Or at least before the invention of the boneless, skinless chicken breast.

Using every part of the animal has become especially popular in today's economy as innards are some of the cheapest proteins around.

Adventurous home cooks who want to join in the trend can start with this old-time recipe for spaghetti sauce using chicken livers, a request of Mark Lawless. It comes from Longchamps, a popular 1950s restaurant chain in New York and Washington, DC. We found it at lostnewyorkcity.blogspot.com

Chicken livers are usually sold in 16-ounce tubs in the meat department of most grocery stores. They cost between $1 and $1.50. Use within a day or two of purchase, as offal deteriorates quickly.

Send requests to kathys@sltrib.com" Target="_BLANK">kathys@sltrib.com or Kathy Stephenson , c/o The Tribune, 90 S. 400 West, Suite 700, Salt Lake City, UT 84101.

Longchamps spaghetti with chicken livers

3/4 cup butter

1 medium onion, chopped

3 shallots, chopped and divided

2 cloves garlic, chopped

1/4 pound fresh mushrooms, sliced

4 whole tomatoes, peeled and cut

1 1/2 cups tomato sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

1 bay leaf

2 pinches allspice

Salt and pepper

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 pound chicken livers, cut in small pieces

1 pound spaghetti, cooked according to package directions and drained

Parmesan cheese, grated

Melt butter in pan. Add onion, 2 shallots and garlic, saute until browned. Add mushrooms and simmer for 5 and 6 minutes. Add tomatoes, tomato puree, sugar, bay leaf, allspice and salt and pepper. Simmer 45 minutes. Remove bay leaf.

In a separate pan, heat 2 tablespoons butter. Add remaining shallot and chicken livers. Saute for 5 minutes or until cooked through. Add to sauce.

Serve sauce over cooked spaghetti. Top with grated Parmesan cheese.

Servings » 6

Source » lostnewyorkcity.blogspot.com