Solitude - Thoughts of visiting Creekside restaurant varied from anticipation to trepidation. I yearned for a respite from the searing summer heat, but could not be too enthusiastic, since so often the food does not match the view.
I was right on both counts. The mountains were 10 degrees cooler, the sights were lovely and the food was so-so.
Creekside's menu is made up of copious appetizers, pizzas, sandwiches, soups and salads, entrees and desserts. When The Tribune visited in 2003, the menu was exclusively Italian. Today, Italian mixes with French and Greek - all with an American interpretation. There are the usual suspects - deep-fried calamari, caprese salad and crème brulée. But also some pleasant surprises - rice croquettes, a special crab and shrimp salad atop half an avocado and a rocky road dessert.
Within the vast menu, there are unusual words that go unexplained, such as fondant, while others have redundant descriptors, such as "caramelized sweet onions."
I can get past the quirky menu writing, but I cannot get past the saltiness that plagued many dishes.
Take the calamari ($10.95). Tender and blond, the ringlettes and tentacles came with kicky chipotle aioli and mango-tomato sauce, but the dish was overwhelmed by unneeded ribbons of salty pecorino.
A risotto ($23.95) with zucchini, yellow squash, mushrooms, asparagus and a skewer of shrimp was mushy (the risotto) and salty (the risotto and the shrimp). And the "crust" on the calzone a la [sic] Solitude ($14.95) was thick and in no way resembled pizza crust. Chock-full of mushrooms, mozzarella and tomato sauce, the bready half-moon became oversalted with the addition of prosciutto and pecorino.
The chef made a thoughtful attempt to make mozzarella for the caprese salad ($11.95). But the cow's milk cheese was gritty and tasteless; it pretty much ruined the salad.
Our affable server led us in the right direction by recommending the special "Smogen" appetizer ($10.95). Crab-shrimp salad nestled in half an avocado received a browned top from the broiler. The creaminess complemented the brininess of the crustaceans while acidity from Dijon dressing cut the richness of the dish.
Rice croquettes ($7.95) also were well executed. Peas, ham and mascarpone are encased in rice balls, rolled in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. The result is a golden crunchy exterior and unctuous, savory middle.
A dish of beef tips, roasted mushrooms and asparagus with pappardelle ($19.95) was one of the better entrees. The smoky notes from the grilled fungi and asparagus added depth of flavor to the cream-based sauce.
Of the desserts, rocky road tarts ($8.75) are worth the calories. Two mini-tart shells are filled with chocolate mousse. A gooey mix of pecans and coconut goes on top, then toasted marshmallows and finally whipped cream. The combination of flavors really works.
Other desserts are not worth the calories - or the price. Key lime cheesecake ($7.95) was lean on lime, crème brulée ($8.95) lacked a sugar crust and two huge sabayon-topped "forest berry" crêpes ($9.95) were rubbery.
As for the wine list, though there are more than a dozen by-the-glass options, there are only a few thoughtful selections, such as the 2005 Guigal C tes du Rhone Blanc ($28). That said, the markups are reasonable, with many prices in the $20 to $30 range for 750-ml bottles.
In the end, dining al fresco goes a long way to making a memorable evening. Wouldn't it be even better if the food were as good as the view?
Lesli J. Neilson can be contacted at lneilson@sltrib.com or 801-257-8661. Send comments to livingeditor@sltrib.com.
Dining al fresco at Solitude
Overall rating - 
Food - 
Mood - 
Service -
Noise - 2 bells
In a nutshell - Creekside's copious menu could be pared down and executed better. Then it would have great food and a brilliant view going for it.
Where - Solitude Mountain Resort; 801-536-5787
Web site - www.skisolitude. com/dining/creekside.php
Hours - Saturday and Sunday, 10 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Thursday to Sunday, 5 to 9 p.m.
Children's menu - Yes
Prices - $$$
Liquor - Full bar
Corkage - $12
Reservations - Recommended
Takeout - Yes
Wheelchair access - Yes
Outdoor dining - Yes
On-site parking - Yes
Credit cards - All major
Overall rating -
