The Vietnamese-style hero sandwich - called banh mi - is a melding of a crusty baguette, seasoned meats, crisp Asian vegetables and cooling herbs. It's been called "French and Asian fusion at its best" and even "cheesesteak sandwich meets spring rolls."

Whatever the moniker this submarine-like sandwich is strangely addictive, and surprisingly economical. Most cost between $2 and $2.50, perfect for a quick lunch or a picnic in the park.

In Salt Lake County, banh mi heaven is a stretch of Redwood Road from about 2800 South to 4100 South, where a handful of supermarkets and Vietnamese restaurants sell these hearty, refreshing portable meals.

Banh mi - which means bread - is Vietnam's version of "fast food" sold from street carts and eaten on the way to work or school, says Brenda Xa, owner of the Tay-Do Supermarket, 3825 S. Redwood Road, West Valley City. The Asian market sells several different varieties of banh mi in its quick-serve deli.

"It's easy to eat anytime," said Xa who sells about 500 of these sandwiches each week.

Food historians say this hearty meal dates back to the 19th century, when French colonists moved into Vietnam - once called French Indochina - introducing a new language, culture and foods. Not surprisingly, the Vietnamese people were drawn to the soft, crusty French bread. They likely filled it with meats, seasoned with soy sauce, said Xa. Later they added pickled vegetables and hot chiles.

Today, the meat used to fill banh mi can vary. Pork - in several different incarnations - is the most common offering. There is banh mi thit nuong, marinated and grilled pork; banh mi bi, shredded pork with skin and seasonings; banh mi xa xiu, barbecue pork; and banh mi xiu mai, juicy pork meatballs.

Most menus also offer banh mi ga, marinated and shredded chicken; banh mi jambon, ham and banh mi bi chay, a vegetarian option with tofu. And any Vietnamese deli with any chops will have banh mi dac biet, a combination of several meats.

Traditionally the baguette is spread with liver pâté and mayonnaise, two other French contributions. But many businesses have created their own special house mayonnaise or special pâté-like sauces to distinguish themselves from competitors.

Garnishes are what elevate this hearty Vietnamese meal above a typical American sandwich. Thin matchsticks of pickled carrots and daikon (a large, sweet Asian radish) add tangy flavors, jalapeños create heat, while sliced cucumbers and fresh sprigs of cilantro bring a cooling effect.

Unlike many ethnic dishes, banh mi is something that cooks can also make fairly easily at home with their own grilled meats and vegetables. (See recipe below.)

Thao Ly, owner of Cafe Thao Mi Go-Go, 1773 W. Carriage Square, Taylorsville, remembers being a young girl in Vietnam and buying banh mi at a cart across from her school every day for lunch.

When she came to America, her mother-in-law taught her how to make this childhood favorite. Today, her restaurant offers 11 varieties of banh mi along with traditional Vietnamese vermicelli and rice dishes,

"People like it," she said, "because the price is reasonable and with all the vegetables its refreshing and not heavy."

KATHY STEPHENSON can be contacted at kathys@sltrib.com or 801-257-8612. Send comments about this story to livingeditor@sltrib.com.

A sampling

In Salt Lake County, banh mi heaven is a stretch of Redwood Road from about 2800 South to 4100 South. It includes:

Cafe Thao Mi Go-Go, 1773 West Carriage Square (4100 South), Taylorsville; 801-906-0120. Open daily. This Vietnamese restaurant offers 11 varieties of banh mi for $2.50 along with traditional Vietnamese vermicelli and rice dishes.

Hong Phat Market, 3086 S. Redwood Road, West Valley City; 801-975-1534. Open daily. This family-run market has eight different banh mi options, each costing $2.50. The barbecue pork banh mi is owner Natalie Nguyen's signature offering, but the combination, a mixture of several different meats, is the most popular.

Pho 99, 2899 S. Redwood Road, West Valley, City, 801-433-0919. Open daily. This tiny restaurant - attached to the Tai-Loi Market - specializes in the aromatic Vietnamese soup known as pho. But it does offer a banh mi sandwich made with thinly sliced pork lunch meat - similar to bologna - along with the pickled vegetables and hot jalapeños. It costs $2.

Tay-Do Supermarket, 3825 S. Redwood Road, West Valley City; 801-972-4700. This Asian market sells several different varieties of banh mi for $2.50 its quick-serve deli in the back of the store. The version made with marinated and grilled pork is especially delicious.