This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2008, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.

Baxter's American Restaurant is a breed apart from its predecessor, Butterfly, and in many ways it is more suited to its home at the north end of The Gateway mall and The Depot music venue next door.

Gone are the Asian fusion sauces that cavorted cultures and jumbled palates. Instead, a trio of smoky-tangy barbecue, tartar and good-old Utah fry sauce flank the exceptionally crisp and hot onion rings ($7.25). And Philly cheesesteak gets a localized, gussied-up redux with hangar steak. Purists will cry foul, but it is a sight to behold.

The décor, too, has lost the urban sleekness. Sure, there's a tiled wall fountain at the entrance, where you also meet the kitchen line head on. The place has a warmer vibe, with hammered copper ceilings, cushier seats and fun geometric light fixtures - kind of like what the Mad Hatter's place would look like if he had an urban loft. The art on the walls doesn't seem to take itself too seriously, either. My favorite is the faux-bookcase wallpaper, last seen on set when Jeremy Brett played Sherlock Holmes. It flanks the bar, home of a refreshing cucumber martini ($7).

The space is far more inviting. For one, the private club fee is gone. The service is casual, attentive and cheeky. Perhaps it is due to the fact that during our visits, the dining room was practically empty, which is odd considering the good deals - a three-course express lunch special ($9.95) and "cheap-o Mondays" with half-priced appetizers and $2 Uinta beers.

And when you get to the menu, that cheeky approach to food is evident in the titles. "To order before you order," is a kind of prequel to the appetizers, which happen to be Baxter's strength. The comforting tomato soup ($7.25) is substantial, but not cloying. And it actually tastes like wonderfully ripe tomatoes. The Shepherd's goat cheese on top offers a tangy contrast.

If you want the real fresh stuff, the chilled gazpacho ($7.25) is an example of balanced textures and flavors of tomatoes, bell peppers and onions. The toast topped with beefy Gorgonzola cheese rounds out the acidity.

Chances are at Baxter's, if it's deep-fried, it's good. Case in point - those onion rings, the ultra-tender calamari spiked with slices of vinegary hot jalapeños ($11.25), French fries ($4 side order) and haystack fries ($4 side order).

The entrees mirror the vivid use of color. Coral pinks and soft greens in a pesto-pistachio salmon dish ($19.50). Deep browns and pinks of a perfectly cooked steak, as in a medium-rare grilled filet mignon with rich buttermilk mashed potatoes ($21.95). Or the earthy purple of the onion jam on top of melting Gouda and beef patty of "a very large burger" ($10.75).

But it's also where some of Baxter's shortcomings come to light. Often, just one component is off on the beautifully plated dishes. That original cheesesteak lacks greasiness and flavor that makes the idea of cheesesteaks so gluttonously appealing. On the other end, the wasabi that laces the meat loaf's mashed potatoes ($14.75) clashed loudly with the luscious smoked catsup. Then for texture, the chipotle-glazed ribs ($14.50) were intense and lacked a tenderness you'd expect from meat so close to the bone.

"Halibut has a bad hair day" ($19.50) was an eye feast of dry white fish encased in a porcupine shell of shredded phyllo. But the risotto in the pesto-pistachio salmon was wonderfully creamy as only rice starch can be.

Dessert can be hit or miss. But the New York-style cheesecake ($6.95) is dense and smooth and topped with just the right amount of sour cream. The best, though - and perhaps the reason to visit Baxter's - is the housemade doughnuts. It's the most emblematic of Baxter's sophisticated but approachable credo - and it's quite addictive. Two unpretentious rings of freshly fried dough, served airy and warm with a trio of sauces for dipping. Our advice: Steer clear of the overly sweet chocolate and bland honey butter and opt for the intense raspberry coulis. You'll be quoting Homer Simpson by meal's end. "Mmm. Doughnuts." Drooling is optional.

---

* VANESSA CHANG is a Tribune restaurant reviewer. E-mail her at food@sltrib.com. To comment on this column, write livingeditor@sltrib.com.

Baxter's American Restaurant

* OVERALL RATING:

* FOOD:

* MOOD:

* SERVICE:

* NOISE: 2 bells

* IN A NUTSHELL: The décor and food are colorful with humorous touches to the menu as with the "very large burger," tender calamari fried with jalapeños and doughnut dessert. Straightfoward dishes such as the grilled filet mignon are good, too.

* WHERE: 400 W. South Temple, Salt Lake City; 801-456-8999

* HOURS: Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Saturday, 5 to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., 5 to 10:30 p.m.

* CHILDREN'S MENU: No

* PRICES: $$

* LIQUOR: Full bar

* CORKAGE: $10

* RESERVATIONS: Accepted

* TAKEOUT: No

* WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes

* OUTDOOR DINING: No

* ON-SITE PARKING: No

* CREDIT CARDS: All major