The one-room restaurant is a no-frills kind of place. People don't come for the décor; they come for the food.
What type of fare attracts devotees to Carl's? Classic, home-style breakfast and lunch offerings. Little has changed since The Tribune last visited, in 2003. Since then, prices have increased only slightly, but they are still extremely reasonable - and it is a cash- or check-only affair.
If you are hankering for a heap of food, the "belly buster" ($5.95) is the way to go. Thin potato slices are followed by sausage, bacon or ham, eggs any style and then cheese (Swiss, cheddar, American or feta).
Biscuits and gravy ($5.25 with eggs and potatoes; $3.50 as a side order) were a tad on the cold side, but the country gravy had nice flavor and the biscuits were flaky.
There also are some down-home touches. Perfectly golden deep-fried Utah scones ($1 each or order it instead of toast with any breakfast meal for 50 cents) arrive about six inches across unlike those daunting Frisbees you get at other places. Carl Wallace's widow makes the zucchini bread (75 cents). It is deliciously moist and classically spiced without nuts.
The most popular lunch items include the Reuben ($4.55) and the Southerner (hot turkey, swiss, bacon and avocado for $4.55).
As for the staff, it is so incredibly friendly and accommodating you can almost forgive the kitchen that the spread of choice is margarine and the blueberry muffins ($1.25) come from Sam's Club.
More difficult to forgive, however, were a dry Alta omelet ($6.75) and overcooked breakfast sandwich ($5.50). Chicken, feta, sun-dried tomatoes and mushrooms were a fine combination in the omelet but suffered inside their rubbery egg envelope. Dry scrambled eggs also hurt the sandwich. The big bun had me picking out and eating just the ham and cheddar from the sandwich.
Yet despite the flaws - it was a busy Saturday - it is obvious that folks love Carl's. After all, the cafe has been around for 30 years.
Eggs in the City
This 4-year-old breakfast and lunch place is as hip as they come. Old glass-paned garage doors from the restaurant's past as a garage/gas station open up onto a pergola'd patio. Also, earth-toned walls receive other eclectic decorative touches such as a real bicycle and black and white memorabilia photographs.
As for the food, it is hip as well.
Excited to try the corned beef and hash that was on the menu when The Tribune visited in 2004, I was sad to see it missing. Instead, one of the most popular items is the huevos rancheros ($8.99). After tasting it, I understand why. Two eggs any style you like are doused with red ranchero sauce atop corn tortillas - wheat and flour are also available - breakfast potatoes, deliciously seasoned black beans, pico de gallo and sour cream. A little kicky chile verde on the side only elevates the already great dish.
Skillets ($8.99) also are a good way to go. The Greek version combines potatoes, spinach, peppers, onions, feta, cheddar and avocado with two eggs. There are also meat-lovers and Mexican variations.
Choose any three ingredients to put in a fluffy and moist three-egg omelet ($7.75). Pancakes are equally airy and stacks vary from one to three ($2.25-$5.25; add $3 for fruit and nuts).
A special salmon Benedict ($10.25) piles salmon, spinach, tomato and a perfectly poached egg atop an English muffin. It is obvious the kitchen knows how to cook its eggs.
French toast ($2.25-$6.75; add $3 for fruit and nuts) was out of sight. The most incredibly flavored sourdough bread came with delectably crispy edges. For an extra 95 cents, be sure to order real maple syrup. My only quibble was that the syrup was not warm.
Lunch offerings consist of salads (half, $4.50-$5.95; full, $6.50-$8.75), sandwiches ($5.59-$10.50) and burgers ($6.25-$7.75). Notables include the Cobb salad, pot roast and beef philly sandwiches.
Service is spot-on, cordial and obliging. I sure hope Eggs in the City will be around for 30 years like Carl's Cafe.
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* LESLI J. NEILSON is a Tribune restaurant reviewer. E-mail her at lneilson@sltrib. com.
Carl's Cafe
* OVERALL RATING: 
* FOOD:
* MOOD: 
* SERVICE: 
* NOISE: 1 bell
* IN A NUTSHELL: This veteran breakfast and lunch place thrives with a no-nonsense menu that includes delicious Utah scones and the hearty "belly buster" breakfast.
* WHERE: 2336 E. 7000 South, Cottonwood Heights; 801-943-5138
* HOURS: Monday to Saturday, 7 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 1 p.m.
* CHILDREN'S MENU: No
* PRICES: $
* LIQUOR: None
* RESERVATIONS: No
* TAKEOUT: Yes
* WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
* OUTDOOR DINING: No
* ON-SITE PARKING: Yes
* CREDIT CARDS: No; cash or check only
Eggs in the City
* OVERALL RATING:
* FOOD:
* MOOD:
* SERVICE:
* NOISE: 2 bells
* IN A NUTSHELL: It's no wonder this hip breakfast and lunch place is so popular. Try the huevos rancheros, spot-on French toast and fluffy three-egg omelets.
* WHERE: 1675 E. 1300 South, Salt Lake City; 801-581-0809
* HOURS: Open daily, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.
* CHILDREN'S MENU: No
* PRICES: $
* LIQUOR: None
* RESERVATIONS: No
* TAKEOUT: Yes
* WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: Yes
* OUTDOOR DINING: Yes
* ON-SITE PARKING: Yes
* CREDIT CARDS: All major
