This is an archived article that was published on sltrib.com in 2008, and information in the article may be outdated. It is provided only for personal research purposes and may not be reprinted.
Imagine yourself in Chiang Mai, Thailand, looking out your hotel window and into the streets below: There are hundreds of Thais and tourists running amok, every which way, shouting, squealing with laughter, and all splashing each other with water.
From where you stand, there doesn't seem to be a single person who isn't squirting water, or ducking to avoid being hit by water, or totally oblivious to the fact that they're only a fraction of a second away from becoming one with a blast of water.
And what's more, nearly everyone is wielding a water-dispersing device. A garden hose, for instance, which seems to be the weapon of choice for Thai bartenders. Dozens of them are out on the sidewalks, drenching the very same tourists they probably served the night before. Groups of tiny Thai children are holding on to red and blue plastic buckets, into which they dip their hands before sprinkling their brothers and sisters.
Western backpackers are wearing baggy T-shirts and bikini tops, and nearly all of them are hoisting ridiculously large, high-powered plastic water pistols. These guns propel liquid at such an extremely strong velocity, in fact, that the Thai government has officially outlawed their use.
But no one in Chiang Mai is bothering with legal technicalities today. And from the unmistakable looks on the faces of everyone in the streets below, this is quite clearly some of the very best fun they've had in years.
There is a perfectly good explanation for the liquid chaos that annually transforms this city of peaceful Buddhists (and much of Thailand) into a giant puddle. It's called Songkran, a Thai holiday, and a special, sacred one at that: In Southeast Asia, where the Buddhist calendar is used, April 13-15 officially rings in the New Year.
Songkran usually lasts for three days, but might stretch to five or seven, depending on where you are in the country. During Songkran, Thais visit monasteries and convene with family and friends. But mostly, it's a time when Thais contemplate renewal, by ritualistically "cleansing" each other - with water, naturally - of any mistakes or misdeeds they may have caused during the previous 12 months.
Historically, the throwing of water represented respect: Younger Thais would show reverence by gently sprinkling water or perfume onto the hands of their elders, who in turn would then sprinkle the town's monks, as well as its beloved Buddha statues. But possibly because April is Thailand's hottest month, and possibly because Thais and Westerners have embraced the tradition as an excuse to go berserk, the holiday's heritage and symbolism now coexist with sheer fun.
Today, Songkran is often referred to as "Water Wars." With its legendary temple architecture and laid-back pace, not to mention the conveniently water-filled moat that forms a giant square around its Old City, Chiang Mai is known as the holiday's unofficial ground zero. Songkran is celebrated with an enthusiasm bordering on pure pandemonium. Thousands of revelers line up alongside all sides of the moat.
"Sorry about that!" says an accented voice from inside the restaurant, as you stand helplessly in the middle of the lobby, a small puddle forming around your feet. After finally braving the out-of-doors, where three giggling young boys promptly unload a bucket of water on your head, you think to yourself that maybe all this splashing around and going berserk with perfect strangers isn't such a bad way to celebrate new beginnings after all. And you just might head outside and join them. Why not? After all, it's Thai New Year.
Getting there
* Multiple carriers fly from the U.S. to Bangkok, Thailand's capital, with airfares starting around $900. From Bangkok you can catch a domestic flight to Chiang Mai for around $100 round-trip.
* Cycling is a good way to get around Chiang Mai if you don't mind a little traffic. For info on Chiang Mai events, visit http://www.chiangmainews.com.
Where to stay
* Funky Julie Guesthouse (011-66-5327-4355; 7/1 Soi 5, Phrapokklao St.; rooms $5-$10) is a great place to meet budget travelers.
* Tri Gong Residence (011-66-5321-4754; 8 Soi 1, Sribhum Road; rooms $20) has large teak-furnished rooms surrounding a courtyard.
* High-end D2 Hotel (011-66-5399-9999; 100 Chang Klan Road; rooms $150-$500) attracts Thai and international hipsters with baht to burn.
Where to eat
* Chiang Mai is one of Thailand's best restaurant cities. Intimate and charming, Hong Tauw Inn (011-66-5322-8333; 95/17-18 Nantawan Arcade, Nimmanhaemin Road; dishes $2-$4) serves fiery curries and banana flower salads in a 1940s-era atmosphere.
* Run by the Chiang Mai Cookery School, The Wok (011-66-5320-8287; 44 Ratchamankha Road; dishes $2-$5) plates big vegetarian dishes in an outside area with pretty lanterns.