The state has lost more than 3,200 acres of orchards, down to a total of 6,664 acres, according to a newly released 2006 census of the state's fruit crop conducted for the first time since 1993.

"The loss comes from urban sprawl," said Brent Black, a consultant for the census and an extension fruit specialist with Utah State University. "The best fruit acreage was along the benches of the Wasatch Front, which is also a prime development area."

Now, surviving operations are concentrated in the hands of a few individuals, the census shows. Some 44 growers oversaw 73 percent of the acreage in 1993, compared to 31 farms controlling 82 percent of the acreage last year.

Part-time growers, however, are beginning to enter the marketplace, growing fruit for small U-pick operations or local farmers markets, said Black. More than 170 people - comprising 56 percent of all fruit operations in Utah - are growing trees on 3 acres or less. Although this only accounts for 3.5 percent of the total fruit acreage, the trend is part of a nationwide phenomenon.

"This is a quality of life issue," said Black. "As we continue to urbanize, people are finding out that they can grow a crop on small parcels, make a reasonable income and provide fresh fruit to their neighbors."

In Orem, Ron Rieske struggles to make ends meet on his 3 acres of peach, apples and plum trees. Rieske, 66, a retired civilian worker from the Tooele Army Depot, said rising costs for fertilizer, pesticide and labor have cut into what little money he makes on the fruit. And, someone drops by at least once a month asking about the property. Rieske said that someday, he'll sell the orchard.

Utah County, however, remains the state's No. 1 fruit grower, with the largest number of acres of orchards. And except for apricots, Utah County accounts for the largest number of acres of any fruit reported. Washington County had the largest number of apricot orchards, with 69 acres.

In peaches, Box Elder County rivals Utah County, with 410 acres of peaches, compared to Utah County's 592 acres.

Apples had been the state's No. 1 fruit, comprising 41 percent of the harvest in 1993, compared to only 21 percent today. Cheap imports from China are to blame, said Black.

Today, the state's most abundant fruit crop is tart cherries, comprising 48 percent of the fruit harvest. Utah is also the nation's second largest producer. But No. 1 Michigan out produces Utah's tart cherry crop of 26 million pounds by eight times.

For the first time, the state census included information on berry and grape production. Cache County had the largest number of berry and grapes, with 47 acres, followed by Utah County with 25 acres. Statewide, 64 growers have planted berries and grapes on a total of 127 acres.

Overall, Utah's banner fruit harvests are long past, according to a report by the Utah Department of Agriculture and Food. The best production year for tart cherries was 1992; apples, 1987; sweet cherries, 1968; apricots, 1957; pears 1954; and peaches 1922.

dawn@sltrib.com