West Valley City - The predominant local vocabulary for Asian cuisine has ventured from "kung pao" to "tom kha gai." Southeast Asian cooking 'round these parts is usually limited to Thai; but now is a good time for a new lesson. Not necessarily in pronunciation, but at the very least, flavor. Try this one: pho (pronounced FUH).

It's a generous bowlful of delicious spice-inflected beef broth, delicate rice noodles and thin slices of beef, ranging from the familiar (rib-eye and fatty brisket) to the temptingly adventurous (tripe).

Steaming hot, it arrives with a plate of fresh Thai basil and sawtooth herb for anise and lemony flavors, sliced jalapeños, lime wedges and bean sprouts to season at will. And at Pho Green Papaya, pho is not only the namesake, but also the house specialty.

Noodle soup seems the most counterintuitive thing to eat in summer. But when you inhale the vapors of fresh herbs and sip the wonderfully light and silky broth with bites of soft beef and noodles in between, it seems like the best idea. In fact, many of Pho Green Papaya's offerings exemplify what I love about Vietnamese cuisine: fresh flavors from fresh ingredients which, when done incorrectly, can acquire some undesirable heft.

The West Valley restaurant is an antidote for anyone tiring of Thai, but has a passion for Thai basil and lemon grass. Refreshingly, Green Papaya's menu isn't watered down with Chinese-American specialties.

Instead, the Vietnamese foundation is dotted with forays into Korea, courtesy of grilled sesame short ribs and Thailand with an unctuous lamb curry. That moderately paced variety with the stylish black and red dining room make it popular spot for the lunchtime crowds (seemingly, every color of the Salt Lake rainbow) who've discovered the affordable lunch combos ($7.95 to $8.95). Though dinner's slower pace is the more enjoyable time to discover Green Papaya's treasures.

Travel-savvy diners may wonder if this Pho Green Papaya is related to the famous and beloved Vietnamese Eatery in Vancouver, Wash. It's not. Even without the association, the place is doing just fine, thank you, even if there are missteps here in the lemon grass hotpot and the papaya salad. The hotpot was bland and unremarkable and the salad arrived with cold sticky rice and strips of bland chicken.

But it redeemed itself with quail. The appetizer's $4.50 price may strike some as suspicious in terms of quality. I assure you, there's nothing to fear. Each bird is fried to a golden brown and the meat is wonderfully succulent. The sauce pairing isn't remotely sweet and cloying. Instead, you get a pile of salt and black pepper that you turn into a paste with the squeeze of fresh lime. The resulting paste is a bracing counterpoint to the fatty meat.

Fans of fried fish must order the salt baked sea bass ($10.95). Crunchy nuggets of tender fish are perfectly seasoned with salt and adorned with a shower of diced chili peppers. You can control the temperature with each bite so everyone tableside can share.

Actually, much of the menu is interactive, such as with the season-it-yourself pho, the sea bass and the "Nuong Vi" ($19.95). Don't sweat it if languages aren't your thing. Just ask for the "Self Roll."

The servers tell you it's something to share between at least two people - we did just fine with four. The whole dish is a bit of a show. Servers bring out a whole tabletop griddle and instruct you how to light the gas burner sitting underneath. Then you heat a bit of oil and cook the tender, marinated slices of beef, fresh calamari and shrimp. Roll up the proteins, anything from the plate of fresh herbs, lettuce and apples, and munch away on all that temperature and texture interplay.

And in this sort of heat there's nothing wrong with a good dinner and a bit of spectacle in one nicely air-conditioned spot. Especially since you get your hands a little dirty - in a very delicious way.

Vanessa Chang is a Tribune restaurant reviewer. E-mail her at food@sltrib.com. To comment on this column, write livingeditor@sltrib.com.

Pho Green Papaya in West Valley City

Overall rating:

Food:

Mood:

Service:

Noise: 2 bells

In a nutshell: The pho is always good as is the extensive menu full of Vietnamese items like the salt-baked cod, lamb curry and self-roll - a table-sharing feast of cook-it-yourself beef, squid and shrimp. Wash it all down with a house lemonade.

Where: 2000 W. 3500 South, West Valley City; 801-886-1548

Hours: Sunday to Thursday, 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.; and Friday and Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Children's menu: No

Prices: $$

Liquor: Beer

Corkage: $5

Reservations: No

Takeout: Yes

Wheelchair access: Entrance only

Outdoor dining: No

On-site parking: No

Credit cards: Mastercard, Visa