The Good Housekeeping Research Institute tested 31 of the newest gas, electric and dual-fuel ranges. After baking 1,860 chocolate-chip cookies and 232 cakes, boiling 248 quarts of water and broiling 31 steaks, here are the top picks (for more range reviews, including the best dual-fuel ranges, go to goodhousekeeping.com/ ranges):

ELECTRIC RANGES

Super splurge: Electrolux Wave-Touch #EW30EF65GS ($2,599)

Cooking results: It broils a steak worthy of an outdoor grill, and turned out lofty, tender cakes when set to convection.

Standout features: The "Perfect Turkey" option sets the right temperature and time. It has a warming zone on the stovetop and a second oven that doubles as a warmer.

Chef's caveat: You will need time to learn to use its fancy features.

Midpriced: Kenmore Elite #96633 ($1,950)

Cooking results: Eight quarts of water boil in just 20 minutes (on others, it took up to 41 minutes).

Standout features: The Air Guard system minimizes smoke and odor during self-cleaning. It includes electronic controls, a program that converts temperature when using convection, a warming drawer and a rangetop warming area.

Chef's caveat: The customer service rep couldn't answer a basic question about using the convection oven.

Budget buy: Whirlpool #WFE371LVS ($799)

Cooking results: The oven heats very evenly; the test cakes came out perfectly level and were easy to frost.

Standout features: Steam-cleaning gets rid of greasy baked-on splatters on the oven floor in just 20 minutes.

Chef's caveat: The broiler can't brown steaks by the time they are medium-rare.

GAS RANGES

Super splurge: Frigidaire #PLGFMZ298GC ($1,649)

Cooking results: Burners maintain a perfect simmer, so when making sauce, you won't need to constantly adjust the flame.

Standout feature: An oval burner in the center of the cooktop holds a griddle (a nonstick one is included). A second, smaller oven can also be used as a warming drawer.

Chef's caveat: It's hard to see inside without opening the door.

Midpriced: Kenmore X78852 ($1,100)

Cooking results: Its excellent convection oven cooks two batches on separate racks that are done at the same time.

Standout features: It includes a warming drawer, a griddle burner and a nonstick griddle.

Chef's caveat: If you want stainless steel, it'll cost you $200 more.

Budget buy: Hotpoint #RGB745WEHWW ($549)

Cooking results: You can make two trays of cookies at once with perfect results - a feat that ranges costing 10 times as much couldn't do.

Standout features: The enameled grates are easy to remove, so cleanup is a breeze.

Chef's caveat: The storage drawer is jerky and difficult to open; the oven window is small.

On another matter: The Institute tested 21 products to see how quickly, easily and thoroughly they removed tarnish from flatware - and if they kept it from coming back.

Weiman Royal Sterling Silver Polish ($4.59) removed tarnish most effectively and efficiently. This liquid spiffed up silverware fastest (less than one minute per piece) and did the best job at retarding tarnish's return, even after six weeks.