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"City of Gold"

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U.S. Documentary

If you must live in Los Angeles, make it the L.A. that food critic Jonathan Gold has uncovered for his readers — and the one he takes us to in Laura Gabbert's tasty documentary "City of Gold." The Pulitzer Prize-winning Gold drives his green pick-up truck around L.A.'s many neighborhoods (Little Ethiopia, Koreatown, Tehrangeles, and so on) seeking out the interesting and unusual restaurants that pop up in strip malls and other unexpected places. Gabbert also follows Gold through his routine, whether talking to his exasperated editors or hanging with his wife, L.A. Times arts editor Laurie Ochoa, and their kids. Gabbert also draws, through Gold's love of the city and its "anti-melting pot" of diverse cultures, a warm-hearted portrait of Los Angeles that will delight Angelenos and surprise the rest of us who too easily mock it.

- Sean P. Means

"City of Gold" is screening in the U.S. Documentary competition of the 2015 Sundance Film Festival. It screens again: Thursday, 9:45 p.m., Broadway Centre Cinema 3, Salt Lake City; Friday, 6 p.m., Redstone Cinema 7, Park City; Saturday, 3 p.m., Egyptian Theatre, Park City.