Wasatch Brew Pub is hopping in revived Sugar House block: Review

Several years ago when the dilapidation around 2100 South and Highland Drive came tumbling down, dissenters lined up to take aim at the redevelopment. A crashing economy spawned the infamous "Sugar Hole," which provided ample ammunition for those battling against the supposed corporate destruction of this "quaint" neighborhood.

In my opinion, that's poppycock (go look it up). The transformation of the area is eminently preferable to its past. Curmudgeons will attempt to relabel the revitalization as gentrification, but those honestly yearning for that past must be packing a seriously powerful prescription of rose-colored spectacles. The arguable epicenter of Sugar House is now home to more fun and flavor than ever before.

With Wasatch Brew Pub, the former Sugar Hole now threatens to become something of a black hole — a massive gravity well of densely packed pubs and brewpubs, that is; I count at least six in staggering distance from one another. Patrons seem powerless to resist the pull, too. On all my recent visits, Wasatch Brew Pub was hopping. Word to the wise: Arrive early if you want to avoid hefty wait times. Reservations are taken only for groups of 10-plus, though the restaurant does have a call-ahead waitlist.

The front of the pub features a traditional bar with TVs and behind that a lounge area. The rest of the space is the restaurant proper, spread over two levels. The whole facility exudes the kind of fancy-schmancy sheen you'd expect from a modern build. It's all open design and floor-to-ceiling windows. Wooden accents echo the restaurant's Park City origins, and lots of shiny metal hints to the fact the joint didn't come on the cheap. With all those hard surfaces and crowds, it can make for a lively atmosphere. Caveat emptor.

The menu won't shock anyone who has stepped inside an American brew pub the past decade. It's pub grub with the de rigueur twists and turns. There's a commendable effort on sourcing; Niman Ranch is relied on in some areas of the menu, local food distributor Nicholas and Company in others, and you'll see other local names like Beehive Cheddar.

An appetizer of Whiskey Salt Tater Tots ($4) kicks off the menu with one of those twists. "Whiskey salt" is fascinating in theory, but in practice, subtle to the point of elusive. Still, deep-fried spuds with creamy tomatillo ranch? I'm sold. Fried pickle spears ($9) come with a blast of spicy breading, but unless you're a pickle nut, they would work better as thinner sliced rounds.

Crispy chicken wings and drums ($13) were the pick of the bunch apps-wise. Indeed, I can't recall the last time I enjoyed a wing this much. Served plain or with fiesta barbecue or full fire sauce, the wings carried off that most tricky of fryer dances — a splendidly crisp and light exterior while maintaining a gloriously juicy interior. Be sure to keep an eagle eye on those prices, though. Price points can run higher than you might expect on certain items.

Loaded Wasatch nachos ($11) offer a decent deal. This sizable platter is plenty to share among friends, piled high with cheddar and jack, house salsa and cilantro creme. Pulled pork or blackened chicken is $3 extra. Go with the pork, it's downright stellar.

A range of soups and salads follow, but frankly, the last thing I'm personally seeking with a cold craft brew is a range of soups and salads. So, on to what I'm really searching for in a brew pub: calories. The Wasatch ($15) burger fit the bill perfectly. The house-made bison burger is best ordered medium, and kudos to our server for even asking on temperature in the first place. Throw on some Cajun remoulade, shredded lettuce and Beehive Cheddar and you're good to go. The whole thing is delivered on a manly Stoneground bun — easily holding up to the torrent of patty juices and oozing toppings until the last bite.

For those afraid of all that visceral meaty messiness, The Veg ($14) burger is fun, too. A crispy falafel patty is topped with marinated tomato, crumbled tofu, a citrus tzatziki slaw and harissa tahini sauce. Conceptually, I'm about as far removed from vegetarianism as I am physically from the sun, but even I could appreciate the effort here. This wasn't just another lazy frozen veggie patty.

A handful of pizzas run $12-$14, the most ambitious of which is the Southern Spirit ($14), topped with "mop sauce," braised pork, baby kale, sour carrots. While the kale offers an interesting profile, the whole combination played out too sweetly.

A classic pub standby that will please many is the Wasatch fish and chips ($15), strips of beer-battered cod fillet and wedge fries — a more-than-acceptable preparation. I preferred the braised chicken thighs ($19), though, a very generous portioned plate of fork-tender chicken with button mushrooms and wild rice. Paired with a creamy nitro-stout, it's precisely what you want to be eating when the snow starts to pile up outside. Pass the chestnuts.

It goes without saying the menu is supported by a sizable selection of craft beer. There are wine and cocktails, too, but with the variety of brews on tap, many seasonal and several assisted by that creamy-boosting nitro, there's only one real choice to make here. Speaking of brews, you might spy the nano-brewery setup as you walk in. No, this doesn't mean Lilliputian brewers and barrels. It simply refers to a more modest capacity, allowing Wasatch to cook up experimental small batches on site, available to patrons in the coming months. It also afforded the recent package agency license, which means beer to go, by the bottle, can and growler.

Rounding out the menu is dessert. A lavender crème brûlée ($7) was a well-executed classic, but a chocolate trifle ($7) was frankly a chocolate pudding with too much hubris and self-confidence; that said, who doesn't like chocolate pudding? Milkshakes ($7) probably offer the best fun, using reduced Wasatch beer for a punch of extra flavor; our waitress kindly split a single order three ways one evening — service here is impressively on point for such a new eatery.

Stepping out onto the busy Sugar House sidewalks after dinner, full of foot traffic, buzz and activity, you'll forgive me if I don't yearn for the bygone days; instead I'm happy to celebrate the great updates that are invigorating the area.

Stuart Melling also writes at www.theutahreview.com and www.gastronomicslc.com — he can be found on Twitter @gastronomicslc .